February 2010 Archives

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(photo: poached eggs with parsley and onion)

My mother can pretty much make a fabulous meal out of anything she has laying around the house (her culinary skill set constantly amazes me).  Here's a classic example: uovo rotto al aqua con cipolla e prezzemolo, literally translated from the Calabrian dialect, "egg broken over water with onion and parsley" or poached eggs with parsley and onion. 

My mother's recipe is not technically a variant of poached eggs but rather a type of gently fried egg.

Let's start with what you'll need:

- 4 large eggs (buy good eggs as they're the king of the show)
- 2 tablespoon of olive oil
- 2 tablespoons of water
- 1 large onion finely diced
- Bunch of parsley fined diced
- 2 teaspoons of dried oregano
- Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

Start by sautéing the sliced onion in 1 tablespoon of olive oil (add salt and pepper to taste).  Once the onion has become softened and slightly caramelized add the chopped parsley and stir well.  Next add the remaining olive oil and water and crack 4 eggs into your sauté pan (in separate parts of the pan).  Sprinkle the eggs with the dried parsley and a bit more salt and freshly grounded pepper.  Cover the sauté pan with a lid and gently cook for 5-10 minutes depending on how cooked you like your eggs (I prefer my egg yolk runny).

You can serve uovo rotto al aqua with some good wheat bread, cured green olives, and some simply prepared risotto, and an arugula salad with vinaigrette.  Serve the eggs with a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough in New Zealand.
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(photo: Bok Choy with garlic, olive oil, and red pepper flakes: $2.00 for 2 pounds)

One of the critical life lessons I learned from my Italian family is how to value food. Specifically, I was taught: 

1., how to cook and the closely associated idea of, 

2., why food is important and should be taken seriously.  

My mother taught me the mechanics of making all sorts of foods from scratch, ranging from pasta to risotto and roasted baby goat to pan seared swordfish.  And at the same time, I learned how important it was to make time for preparing food and, thereafter, sharing it at a communal table with family and friends (and to repeat the process as much as possible).  I equate the latter lesson I was taught as an Italian boy to the importance of reading and scholarly endeavors in the Jewish tradition, for example.  The idea of food being important and necessary for a good quality life is in my blood and I can't imagine living any other way (I know people who place incredible value on Yankee baseball or shiny new car every three years; misguided values or to each his own?).

In turn, it comes as a great shock and disappointment when one looks around and sees a culture of fast food, obesity, and the general lack of importance in relation to consuming homemade food in the US.  Specifically, we hear many reasons from the so-called "food experts", including the notion that buying quality ingredients to produce fresh and homemade food is an expensive endeavor in the United States (ask a European how expensive food can be).  And, moreover, it's more economical for a family of four to purchase dinner and lunch from McDonald's, for example, then to go out and buy fresh food (this isn't the view of the food expert).  What the experts are implying is that poor people choose fast food and other high calorie meals because they have no choice and are priced out from shopping for fruits, vegetables, fish, meats, grains, etc.  

To the latter assertion I say, "that's nonsense!"  And, yes, I'm going to turn to the recent immigrants storybook to illustrate that one doesn't not need to spend a fortune to eat well and, moreover, that a family of four can take his or her fast food budget and prepare "from scratch" meals that are quick, cheap, and taste good (eating well doesn't equate to great spending power, as the folks at SeriousEats.com seem to suggest when responding to one of Pollan's eating tips). 

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(photo: One pound of Wild Flounder made with breadcrumbs, olive oil, and lemon zest.  The fish easily fed four people: $9.99 per pound or $10.00 for serving of four).

Let's take the price of an average meal at McDonalds for four and say that the Smith family will consume 4 medium size French fries, 3 cheeseburgers, 1 6 piece chicken McNugget, and 4 medium sizes Cokes (let's assume dinner will cost about $20; I don't have access to a menu with prices so I just estimated).  With that same $20 I can head to my local independent market (some would call it a gourmet market) and purchase the following items for dinner (I actually bought these items for dinner two days ago):

- 1 pounds of wild flounder fillet for $9.99 per pound or $10.00
- 1 box of artisan ravioli from Vitamia in Lodi, NJ (16 total ravioli) for  $4.50
- 2 medium sized Bok Choy heads (about 2lbs for 99 cents a poud) for $2.00
- 1 loaf of Sullivan Street bread (this is a large bread which will last a few days) for $3.50
- Total: $20.00

Note: I live in a region of the US where the cost of living is high.  

With the above ingredients I made baked flounder with breadcrumbs, lemon zest, and olive oil, ravioli with already prepared homemade tomato sauce, and sautéed bok choy with garlic and olive oil.  We consumed the bread with our fish and vegetable.  We did finish up our meal with two fresh pears and two oranges that were purchased during a different trip to the market.  The meal fed 4 adults (with an appropriate sized portion of fish, vegetable, and bread per person and we started the meal with 4 ravioli per serving).  

Our meal was tasty, satisfying, made with fresh ingredients, and for the exception of the ravioli and bread, prepared at home.  You could certainly make your own bread and pasta at home, and keep price down, but for a Mon-Fri type of meal this is the sort of "pre packaged" items that are ok to buy, in my view.

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(photo: Artisan ravioli made by Vitamia in Lodi, NJ with homemade tomato sauce with mushrooms, made a few nights earlier: 1 pound for $4.50 ).

So, why is it that many poor to middle income families choose the fast food route when it comes to meal choice?  Could the families who choose prepared food not be ingrained with the idea that consuming quality food is important?  If not for my specific culture and upbringing, for example, I certainly would not consider food an important part of living in the US because it's not taught at school or praised in the media.  Therefore, a probable explanation for eating habits in the US may be cultural norms rather than income or access to fresh ingredients.  In sum, I choose to spend my twenty dollars for wild/fresh fish, greens, artisan bread, and handmade ravioli, as opposed to prepared French fries, cheeseburgers, Coke, and deep fried chicken nuggets, because I was taught from an early age to value food and make it at home.  Eating well isn't a byproduct of socio-economic factors (don't listen to the food experts), but rather how one is raised and views the preparation and consumption of food.  Being poor doesn't force you to eat at McDonald's, rather being taught that consuming pre-made food is acceptable (from an early age) and part of how one lives is the culprit.
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(The unit comes in many colors and is perfectly sized.  The two simple buttons are large and easy to use.  The LCD screen is huge and there's no guessing the amount when scrambling in your kitchen preparing a dinner party) 

Update: Congrats to Ami for winning the contest.  The giveaway is now closed.

For years, I've used a Salter metal body kitchen scale to measure everything from pasta portions to cups of flour for baking (well, my wife is the baker so she uses the scale for measuring flour for sweets).  We also use our scale to measure cereal and oatmeal amounts so we don't overeat (especially when we're consuming Cheerios!)  The Salter is a practical enough kitchen tool but I've always had a secret dislike for the product because it 1. is large and takes up valuable countertop space and 2. is not precise.  I do like the industrial design of the tool and if our kitchen was a museum I would indeed leave it out for guests to admire, but a home kitchen is first and foremost a practical space where the user (or home cook) completes tasks (that is, makes food)!  

In turn, I've been looking for a replacement for our Salter for years and it looks like I just found an elegant and cheap solution, namely the EatSmart kitchen scale.  The EatSmart takes up a fraction of the space my old Salter occupied and is also more precise; kind of like an old Model T being replaced by a modern vehicle with a turbo engine and electronic stability control!  The electronic kitchen scale can also measure in ounces, lbs, grams, and kgs.  It also has a handy tare feature which eliminates the weight of whatever item your flour, pasta, etc. is being held in (a bowl or measuring cup, for example).  The scale is easy to use (a big plus for someone who takes ergonomics seriously) and has an auto off button so you don't go wasting battery life!  I can't talk to reliability as of yet as I've only been using the scale for a few weeks, but I can say that I've had no significant problems thus far.  One thing I was concerned about was moving from a device that didn't require batteries or electricity to another "powered" kitchen item (in the case of the EatSmart, 2 AAA batteries).  And while batteries are needed I think the accuracy and functionality of the digital scale outweigh the use of batteries (just a Green acknowledgement).  The device retails for $27.99.


One of the other reasons I get excited about kitchen scales is that they are great mediums to keep calories and portion sizes top of mind when cooking.  For example, even though I've grown up with dry pasta and can pretty much tell you how many grams of linguine fine I'm holding in my hand, I occasionally guess wrong and cook too much pasta for one sitting.  And what ends up happening inevitably is that I consume a larger amount of pasta (usually with a dish like Alio e Olio) than I would like (especially given that I include pasta as a primo or starter at home between 1-2 nights per week).   

Kitchen Scale Giveaway!

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(Kind of looks like a space ship from Star Trek Generations)  

In an effort to control the world wide problem of eating too much pasta (or any food for that matter!) I'll be giving away a single EatSmart digital kitchen scale to one lucky Scordo.com reader.  Here's what you need to do to enter:

- 1. leave a comment under this post on how you use your kitchen scale or an incident on eating too much of one food and not really being aware of it (for example, pasta, potato chips, Cheerios, etc.) and 2. sign up as a fan of Scordo.com on Facebook here or Scordo.com newsletter, it doesn't need to be both).  If you've done both already, then I'll ask you if you can please re-tweet the article URL (http://bit.ly/b6wR9u) on Twitter and include the article URL and and @scordo in your tweet)
 
- Only one entry per person please.

- The contest is open until 12 midnight on 2/27 and a single random user will be picked via Random.org.  The winner will be announced immediately on Twitter (so please follow me) and on Scordo.com by 5PM on Monday, 3/1.


- Please use a valid email address when leaving a comment so I can contact you just in case you're the lucky winner (I'll need your shipping address). 

- EatSmart will send out the digital scale to a single contest winner during the week of 3/1 (you should receive it within 7-10 business days).

That's it, so please sign up for a chance to win a kitchen product that all home cooks should own and use!  If you can't wait to use the EatSmart kitchen scale, you can buy it online via the OpenSky Project (proceeds go towards supporting Scordo.com).  If you don't see the product on my page right away, come back tomorrow in the AM.  

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(Some home improvement projects are just too big for the average homeowner to take on him or herself.  Case in point, when a 100+ year old Silver Maple falls across the entire width of your street.)  

Like many first generation college grads, I come from a long line of blue collar workers (I don't like this phrase as, in my experience, many old world "blue collar workers" are as capable and technical as the average college grad here in the US).  My father was trained as an electrician, but has a skill set ranging from plumbing and carpentry to landscaping and roofing.  Both of my father's brothers are also skilled craftsmen and their expertises include metal working/welding and carpentry.  If I extend my family connections further, the list grows to include professional landscapers, blacktop and cement experts, general contractors, finish carpenters and framers, masons, commercial and residential plumbers, etc.

My hands on skill set, however, is limited.  I can count my home improvement skills on a single hand (and I include painting and mowing the lawn high on the list; not very impressive tasks).  In turn, I often work with my father on running most of the home improvement projects on our 80+ year old home.  And while I've picked up the occasional hands on skill from my father, I've learned to love and master the second most important home ownership skill set; namely, negotiating with contractors.  

Even with a large family-based home improvement network it's often necessary to contract out large jobs given a special skill set, piece of equipment, or simple lack of time to get the project done yourself.  A necessary home improvement project you may need to outsource to an expert may include pouring a new cement sidewalk, laying a new asphalt driveway, installing a new roof, sanding and installing new hardwood floors, tiling a bathroom, or removing a large tree from your local street (see above). 

When it comes to outsourcing a home improvement project and , in turn, negotiating with contractors and tradesmen here are 12 home grown tips keep in mind.  By utilizing the tips below you'll be certain to get the best price and highest quality tradesmen to work on your project:

1. Avoid amateurs and new businesses.  Young and inexperienced individuals and businesses often charge less for a given service and while you may save a few bucks on that new exterior paint job or new furnace for example, you'll end up paying more over the life of the service or item installed.  Hire a bunch of college students to paint your home, for example, and they'll often skimp on the preparation side of exterior painting which includes finely sanding the given surface.  And if you paint on a surface not prepared correctly, you'll need to paint again the following year.     

2. Get at least three bids or estimates.  If you don't have at least three estimates for a home improvement project you'll have no basis to compare what a job should cost.  Moreover, when you talk to as many specialists as possible you'll begin to learn what it's going to take to build a new deck or put in a new roof (and with knowledge comes the ability to negotiate).

3. Avoid hiring a general contractor most of time.  Most general contractors are not hands on and as a homeowner you'll basically be paying a single individual to act as a glorified coordinator.  You can skip the GC mark up and contact the individual tradesmen directly.  Yes, you'll need to spend some time researching who you need to call to get a particular home renovation project completed, but you'll save big by bypassing a general contractor.  I've often been told by general contractors when I push them on pricing that, "hey, I have to make some money here, Vince"  My reply, "go and find someone else to make money on I'm not going to need your services!"  

4. Avoid using "experts" or installers from big box stores like Home Depot and Lowes.  It may seem convenient to hire the local carpet or window installers from Home Depot but there are plenty of horror stories I've heard and the expertise level is often very low with the aforementioned crews.    

5. Ask folks in your neighborhood for recommendations on the top carpenters, plumbers, and electricians in your area.  If you're lucky enough to have a mom and pop hardware store in your town then ask the owner for tips on good tradesmen in the area.  And don't forget to check out completed jobs in your neighborhood (your standard for what constitutes good work may be higher than the 80 year old Mrs. Smith down the block).  Also, don't forget to check local online message boards and visit the Better Business Bearru web site.  

6. Negotiate fiercely and make it a point to tell the contractor you're not desperate to get the project done and you're looking for the best price and a quality job.   If you know you need a new roof then don't wait until you have water coming in from your second floor ceiling to get bids and select a roofer.  If you know someone more knowledgeable than yourself then have them at your house when meeting a contractor to get an estimate.  And as I said earlier, prepare yourself with a bit of research so that you can talk specifics about the job you are looking to get done.  If you get a strange vibe or a bid comes in too high or too low then tell the contractor to take a hike (remember this is a business transaction and you're not looking to become best of friends).  

7. When getting down to an estimate let the contractor give you a bid without much in the way of negotiations (you don't want to reveal too much about what you're willing to pay); at this point, you want to get a baseline price on what s/he is charging for the given service/work.  Get the estimate in writing and move on to the next scheduled estimate or contractor.  After going through several estimates and work samples, you'll have a sense for who you'd like to use.  Have the contractor come over again (don't negotiate on the phone) and tell him you'd like to move forward but that his quote is beyond what you expected and can afford.  Usually the contractor will reduce his estimate by about 10 percent.  State that it's still too high and that you've received 3-4 other estimates for similar work.  The contractor will probably come down again.  Next, tell him you'll pay for the entire project in cash and also do any of the prep work or demo work necessary (if you don't have cash to get the work done, you may want to think twice about being a home owner and maintaining a home).  The contractor should come down again.  Finally, tell him you're willing to recommend his service to friends and family.  His final estimate should be between 20%-30% lower than his first quote (depending on the size of the job).    

8. Before accepting any bid check out the contractors work on at least two similar projects and, if possible have a conversation with the home owners who used the given contractor.  Ask the home owner if the contractor did the work himself or relied on a crew and if they showed up on time and worked neatly.  Finally, ask if the project was completed on time and if s/he met your expectations from a end product and work process perspective.

9. Put as little money down at the beginning of the project as possible. If the contractor screams desperation that he needs money to secure supplies or materials then the contractor is probably not right for you.  If the job is large, then you may want to promise the contractor a small amount (maybe 10-20 percent of the total job) at some mid point milestone.  Remember, you need to have some incentive so that the contractor shows up every day and finishes the job on time.  My standard line to contractors who ask for money upfront is, "why should I give you money if you haven't given my anything in return?"

10. Get everything in writing and be compulsive about the details.  Have the contractor document begin and end time (even if it's an estimate), materials used, who will do the work, insurance, warranty on service and materials, etc.

11. If you've selected a contractor try to be home for at least a few hours during the first day of work and then at random times during the project lifecycle.  Check the contractors work and ask questions.  If the contractor is not doing something according to what you specified in the contract or what you verbally agreed to ask him or her to correct the issue.  Don't expect to have thing go your way if you don't manage the work or contractor in some capacity.  Before making your final payment inspect the work.

12. If the contractor wants to put up a sign advertising his or her work on your front lawn tell the contractor you don't offer free marketing services so s/he can either reduce his estimate again or keep his, "another quality job done by ABC Corp." in his pick up truck.  If at the end of the project the contractor has done a great job ask for some business cards and pass around to friends and family.

Remember that most older homes in the US will need constant home improvement work (here are 5 areas not to ignore) and that learning how to complete a given job or project yourself (if done correctly and with quality) can save you thousands of dollars per year.  If you must use a contractor, then treat the negotiation and the project as a sort of game where your end goal is to get the highest quality work done and the lowest possible price point (in other words, love to haggle!).

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(photo: the DF366, or 36 inch, 6 burner, Duel Fuel Wolf range with custom burner lids from Uncle Frank) 

I live by the rule that you don't need fancy kitchen equipment to produce great food.  I'm also a fierce believer in kitchen tools that have multiple uses (via Alton Brown's mantra that one use tools should not have a place in a home kitchen) and I cringe at expensive home cooking machines like the Sous Vide Supreme and manual kitchen gadgets like a mandolin or pizza stone.  Of course, the three kitchen tools in the previous sentence all work and do their respective tasks well, but the question every home cook needs to ask (just like any good consumer) is: do I really need a particular tool to cook and eat well?  As an example, I turn to the many extraordinary home cooks in my family.  Specifically, I remember my well traveled grandmother who prepared all of her food via an aged 1.5 foot by 1 foot maple cutting board and small plastic handled steak knife from Italy.  She used the knife to dice, chop, and slice and pretty much utilized the "cut into your pan or pot" method of cooking (the cutting board was decorative).  My mother, for example, has never owned a dishwasher, chef's knife, Boos cutting board, All-Clad cookware, etc. and only recently converted over to using a Kitchen Aid Mixer for pizza dough.  And let's just say that the type of cuisine both women were/are producing would make even the fiercest food snob / "expert" salivate with envy. 

It's with a slightly guilty conscious, then, that I admit to owning a necessary, but highly gluttonous, kitchen product; namely, the gentrified industrial range (it's insulated and will not catch on fire randomly, so it's not truly industrial or commercial).  The product in question is the duel fuel 36 inch, 6 burner, Wolf range (model DF366, specifically).  Yes, the monstrous cooking machine that contains enough stainless steel metal to sustain 2 or 3 southern Italian provinces (a crafty Calabrian would, for example, sell the metal from the stove and live a comfortable life via the profits; this is what my father thought when I showed him the unit).  

Our Wolf stove was installed about two years ago and replaced a  25 year old four burner Thermador range top.  Our old Thermador worked but it was reaching the end of its product lifecycle and it required that we light each burner (one of which didn't work) with a match.  When it came down to selecting a new stove we turned to the so-called high end brands like Wolf, Thermador, Viking, and a few other manufactures at the local "fancy appliance" shop (like a luxury car showroom without the exhaust fumes).  


Prior to purchasing our range, I had done my research via third party rating organizations, online message boards and forums (see the GardenWeb Kitchen Forum for a great resource), and, of course, the product literature from each of the manufactures.  However, and uncharacteristically, I made my choice based on design/aesthetics and, to a lesser extent, on performance.  For example, I knew the Wolf Duel Fuel 36 inch range wasn't going to boil water faster than our 25 year old range top and, most likely, require more maintenance and possibly have some sort of reliability issue down the road (Wolf model DF366 has more electronic wizardry than my Mazda3 station wagon) but I still lusted after the large hunk of metal.   I wouldn't necessarily say I made a poor choice when it came to selecting a new stove, but I certainly didn't make the logical choice as there were plenty of smaller, and less expensive, 4 burner gas/convection type stoves on the market.  

In turn, I wanted to share some specific insight on my personal experience with a semi-industrial (insulated) "professional type" range with anyone considering the same type of product for their next kitchen renovation.  Here are my unstructured thoughts on the $7,000+ Wolf 36 inch duel fuel range (6 burner set up):

- Aesthetically, the stove looks great and when all of the stainless steel, black enamel, and burners are cleaned and polished you'll get goosebumps whenever you walk by it.  The stove resembles an Audi sedan with conservative, yet elegant, lines.  And from an build perspective, the unit is more in line with a fine watch than a box that heats things up.  Note, I've experimented with a few stainless steel cleaners and polish and only one has worked well; that is, Wolf's recommended "Signature" polish (which seems to be made specifically for Wolf).

- The stove is a royal pain in the butt to keep clean if you cook consistently.  The stainless steel attracts smudges and scratches easily.  The black enamel cook top requires daily soap and water to keep clean and if it's not buffed with a clean cotton rag you will get annoyed by all of the smudges.  

- The large, porcelain coated, grates are very heavy and difficult to move (which is required when cleaning the black enamel surface).   Further, the grates quickly turned gray due, I'm thinking, to our metal pots rubbing against the cast iron grates (this happened with our fancy Shaw's Original porcelain sink as well; note to these two manufacturers when constructing items out of porcelain please use the same material Italian porcelain tile is made out of as they are truly indestructible).  To Wolf's credit when I called to complain about the grates they simple sent out new grates.   

- The sealed burners have a grey, metal material, that quickly stained on our unit and I haven't been able to remove the brown/black spots to date.  This is annoying especially when the rest of the stove is clean, yet brown spots persist on the sealed burner material.

- The burners themselves are of high quality and 5 out of the 6 burners are capable of producing 15,000 BTUs (I know that many food "experts" will yell at me and say that the BTUs are not high enough and established a good sear, for example, is not possible; to the naysayer I say: "That's no true."  All 6 burners have a simmer setting and 1 burner is capable of a Melt feature with only 9,200 BTU.  

- The auto ignite burners have worked flawlessly and are well engineered overall.  

- The large oven takes an inordinary amount of time to reach temperature and to boot it's quite loud during operation (including venting which happens for a prolonged period of time after the oven is turned off).  We purchased a smaller Cadco convection oven and we end up using the unit more than the Wolf oven given the aforementioned issues.

- The oven has ten cooking modes but beyond the "convection" and "broil" modes I can't differentiate between the remaining eight modes, including "roast" and "bake" (for example, if I want to bake a ham is it the same as roasting it - which mode do I use?) 

- The pivoting electronic control panel is easy to use and does retract flush against the stainless front (a nice design feature which creates a very clean look when pushed closed). 

- The adjustable oven racks are well made, yet they're incredibly difficult to adjust vertically.  The three racks are very wide and you need both hands to go from one position to another (don't attempt to do this once your oven has reached temperature because once you open the oven door to perform the task you'll lose heat because it takes such a long period of time to perform the task).

- The oven cavity has dual halogen lighting so there's plenty of light to see your food. And the oven door construction, along with the oven insulation, is top notch.  The oven size is also very nice and especially handy when it comes to baking larger quantities of cookies, pizzas, etc. (of course with size comes heating time, per above bullet).

So, there you have it, overall I like my fancy Wolf range.  Would I buy a fancy range all over again if I had the choice today?  The answer is most likely no, rather I would buy a higher end version of a standard 4 burner gas range from a company like GE or Bosch (problem is I wouldn't get the same subjective warm and fuzzy feeling every time I walked by a GE Profile).  But, you know what, my pasta water would boil just as fast (somewhere a dead Calabrian relative is laughing at me and my range).    


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(photo: thanks to Dr. K, Chemex in action during brewing process)

I was flipping through the latest issue of the New Yorker and an article by Malcom Gladwell caught my eye, as it usually does whenever I see his name in the table of contents.  Gladwell writes clearly and as deeply as a popularizer of big ideas can so I look forward to his articles (you'll never get all the details with writers like Pinker, Dennett, and Gladwell because they often write for a mass audience - this is just a small critique).

Gladwell's piece was on the drinking habits of two distinct people; the Cambra of Bolivia and the Italian-Americans of New Haven, CT (circa mid 1940's).  The reference to the latter group caught my eye and I read intently as Gladwell points out that for both the Bolivians and Italian - Americans a great deal of alcohol is consumed on a day-to-day basis, but unlike many other ethnic groups, the propensity for alcoholism is low (versus the Irish - American class in New Haven, CT of the same generation, for example).  Gladwell attributes the idea of "drinking responsibly" to cultural norms in the aforementioned groups that don't tell it's members: "drink and get loud or violent", "drink until you can't stand up", or "drink when you have a problem" as is the case for some college students, tailgating sports fans, or unhappy suburban dads.  

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(photo: thanks to Dr. K; close up of "bloom" during brewing process)

The New Yorker got me thinking about other positive habits that Italians and Italian-Americans take part in on a daily basis (I'm not talking about watching the Jersey Shore on MTV).  And like having a daily glass of wine or aperitif, many Italians begin their day with coffee (usually in the form of a single espresso or a cappuccino <if you want to stand out as a tourist in Italy just order a cappuccino after 10:30 AM; it's not accepted for most natives>).  

I witnessed the coffee ritual first hand growing up in NJ, as the first thing my parents did in the morning was reach for the Bialetti stovetop espresso maker.  I should also say that the second thing they both did was kiss their kids (bad breath and all, sorry ma/papa').  For Italians in Europe the morning coffee ritual often takes place at the local bar (short for café) with customers ordering a short or single espresso and consuming it quickly (while standing) at the bar).  The process is usually repeated again after lunch.  

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(photo: thanks to Dr. K; part of unit that collects coffee)

I've expressed my love for all types of coffee here on Scordo.com, including stovetop espresso, French press, handheld espresso, single cup Americano, etc.  And all for good reason, I truly love coffee and I couldn't imagine not taking part in my twice a day coffee ritual (either a latte or Americano in the AM and a single shot espresso after lunch; caffeine after 2PM doesn't work for me).  Recently, I've shared my love of coffee with Dr. K. from Philadelphia (Dr. K is married to my wife's college roommate and we've gotten to know each other over the last couple of months).  And one recent discussion centered on how difficult it's been to find an easy to use, drip style, coffee maker for larger amounts of coffee (read more than a few cups).  Being self described coffee aficionadas we shied away from plug in drip style machines (which are often expensive, yield bland brown liquid, and consume a ton of counter top space) and messy French press machines (which yield a good cup of coffee but often include sediment and are finicky with bean grind).  Just as our quest for a simple drip style seemed futile, Dr. K. stumbled across the Chemex filter drip coffee maker from his favorite online shop Sweetmarias.com.

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(photo: with the first pour of water using my trusty Krups electrical hot water kettle, a must have for any kitchen)

The Chemex is an elegant coffeemaker made out of glass and natural wood and has been produced for forty years (the product is made from International Housewares Corporation in Pittsfield, MA).  The 10 cup model I used basically looked like an oversized science beaker (Chemex was started by a Chemist!) yet with a lot more style.   The Chemex works with a proprietary bonded coffee filter (available in both natural, non dyed, brown and regular, bleached, white).  The square shaped brown filters can be used in a compost and are relatively cheep ($7.50 for 100).  At the heart of the Chemex is the aforementioned paper filter which according to the company is 20-30 percent heavier than standard filters.  The Chemex filters brew coffee slower than most drip style machines but do not let any nasty sediment or paper taste come through.  And brewing via a longer time period is something you want in a drip style machine, as the grinded coffee bean has more time to "sit with" the hot water and creative flavor. 

The process for brewing a pot of Coffee is fairly straightforward with the Chemex unit.  You start with hot water at 200 degrees F. and thereafter  place the custom paper filter over the opening of the unit.  Next, you place one tbsp of coffee per 5 oz cup (grind it fresh please, preferably with a burr grinder, but if you have a traditional blade grinder the Chemex filter is pretty forgiving)  - you can add more or less to suit your taste.   The trick with the Chemex coffee maker is to add just enough hot water (with the first pour) to allow the coffee to "bloom" or develop that nice crema (you'll see it when it happens).  Thereafter, you keep on adding water and stop just before reaching the top (you'll need to do this several times if you wan to brew the full 10 cups).  That's it for the process.  

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(photo: close up of glass and wood/leather handle)

Here are my quick observations on the Chemex unit and the coffee it produces:

- It's incredibly easy to use and clean up is quick (as you just throw away the filter with grinds and wash out the glass container and let dry).

- The coffee is very good and it does exhibit some nice complexity.  The coffee flavor is, indeed, better than a standard drip style coffee maker, but I do find a French press or Aeropress cup of coffee to have more complexity and richer overall flavor.  The coffee is incredibly "clean" with the Chemex; that is to say, there is no harshness or bitterness but it does lack a depth of flavor that I've found with other manual type machines.  I may need to try adding more coffee grinds than the 5 oz per cup recommended by the company.

- The coffee does not remain hot for a long period of time after the brew period.  As Dr. K recommends, it's best to have a large stainless carafe ready so you can move the contents of the Chemex to an insulated container as quickly as possible.

- From an industrial design perspective, The unit is well executed.  The wood and leather used in the middle of the unit serves as a handle and from an ergonomic perspective is almost perfect (think of Oxo products without the plastic).  The model I used was made with machined glass, but there are more expensive models made with hand blow glass.

- The unit is inexpensive and requires no electricity.  The 10 cup (50 oz) model I tried retails for $37.50 at Sweetmarias.com  

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(photo: packaging has an Apple-like feel, very simple and elegant)

- Like any glass coffee maker you do need to be careful when washing / cleaning the unit.  I have friends who have broken countless Bodum glass French press coffeemakers. 

- The unit requires proprietary filters and is akin to a vehicle needing premium gasoline to run (yes, in some cases, an engine will yield more power or run more efficiently, but at a higher price point).  The filters, as I said, are not expensive, but you need them in order for the unit to work the correct way (trust me, I tried using a regular paper coffee filter as a test)  

- The unit is perfect for a large dinner party when you want to brew up a large batch of quality drip style coffee (just make sure you have an insulated carafe waiting and your guests will not be disappointed).

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(photo: Scordoni awaits grapefruit juice and a quick stir)

I didn't always like Campari; in fact, I thought the liquor was bitter, fowl, and just unappetizing.  I remember ordering a Negroni (made with gin, sweet/red vermouth, Campari, and bitters) at a fancy New York restaurant and thinking this drink is strong, but it's really not doing much for me on the flavor / experience side of things.

Fast forward a couple of years to present day and I love most Italian amari and/or digestivos.  The "loving" part came about slowly and I still prefer to mix a liquor like Campari with other ingredients to create the perfect cocktail.  One recent cocktail experiment yielded what I believe is the definitive pre-dinner drink or apéritif; namely, the "Scordoni"

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(photo: Scordoni ingredient from left to right: red vermouth, Campari, St. Germain, and unsweetened white grapefruit juice)

Here's what you'll need to create the Scordoni:

- 1 tumbler glass filled with 5-6 ice cubes (or about half way up the glass)
- 1 ounce of Campari
- 1 ounce of red vermouth (Martini and Rossi is fine)
- 1 ounce of St. Germaine (a French liquor made from elderflower blossoms)
- 2-3 counces of unsweetened white grapefruit juice

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(photo: the ingredients and tumbler glass chilling)

Add the ingredients to your glass and stir well; you can add a twist of lemon, if you'd like.    I like to serve the Scordoni as an apéritif (you can whip up a pitcher and serve it before a large dinner party; I guarantee it will stimulate everyone's appetite!).  The cocktail is also very refreshing and especially tasty during the summer months.   

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(photo: mixed Scordoni)

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(photo: mixed Scordoni in tumbler glass)
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(photo: tarallini made with red pepper flake)

I'm going to ask the inevitable question; how many bags of chips did you consume this weekend?  And did you include some dips like sour cream and chives or salsa to go with the multiple bowls of corn and potato chips?  Well, I'm not going to scold you because it was Super Bowl weekend and what better to go with a cold beer than some salty chips (my favorite beer/chip combo is Brooklyn Lager with Cape Cod Chips; don't tell any of my foodie buddies!).  Oh, burgers go great with beer as well; here's my recipe!

When I'm not consuming chips and beer, however, my favorite all time snack food are taralli (sometime called tarallini or Italian pretzels).  Tarallini are very popular in Southern Italy and go well with wine.  Tarallini are formed into tiny rings and baked and have a crunchy texture and the better varities are made with wine, olive oil, and any number of fresh spices (including red pepper flakes, fennel seeds, and black pepper).  

Like buying a good quality extra virgin olive oil, the selection process for finding a good quality Taralli can be hit or miss (unfortunately, this is the case for many Italian specialty products).  Most Italian specialty shops carry a local product, probably made from a near by bakery (this is the case in my area) or have the bread snacks imported from Italy.  Most of the Taralli that I've tried in the NYC/NJ area have been poor representations of the original product that I first tasted in Calabria.  Taralli should have a crunchy and flavorful consistency and the olive oil and wine components should be nicely pronounced.  Moreover, the bread flavor shouldn't be stale or flat.  When Taralli are made with a particular spice, such as fennel seed, then the spice should be baked throughout the taralli and really stand out as the main flavor component.

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(photo: Aroma Antico tarallini and aroma stix <or bread sticks> made with red pepper flake, sesame seed, and fennel seed)

Recently, I had the chance to sample some taralli made by a Lynbrook, NY company called Aroma Antico (translated as "traditional flavor").  Aroma Antico makes a wide range of products, but their bite size, and flavored, tarallini (branded as Rallini) stand out as one of the better Italian bread snacks I've tried in the US (and believe me my mother kept a well stocked Italian pantry!).

Aroma Antico's Rallini are made without preservatives, artificial flavorings, and GMOs.  Aroma Antico also uses real extra virgin olive oil, NY Finger Lakes region white wine, and unbleached Dakota wheat flour to make their product. The spices used in the Rallini are also top notch and include red pepper flake, black pepper, garlic, and fennel seed.  

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(photo: tarallini made with black pepper)

I sampled all four of the spiced Rallini and each tarallini had the spice baked all the way through the product and the flavor component was huge. The red pepper flake Rallini was nice and spicy and you could see how the olive oil and red pepper flake baked into the product when examining the Rallini closely.  The black pepper variety had a pronounced flavor and was quite good, but my favorite, slightly ahead of the red pepper flake flavor, was fennel seed.  Like the Columbus' Artisan Finocchiona salami), the Rallini fennel tarallini had great fennel seed flavor and were nutty, vibrant, and slightly tart.  I went through a bowl of the Fennel Rallini within minutes; they were that good.    

On a separate occasion I had my parents over for a quick taste and we consumed the remaining Aroma Antico Rallini with some cacciatore, extra sharp provolone, and a bottle of Morellino di Scansano.  My father enjoyed the fennel variety while my mother was impressed with both the garlic and red pepper flake flavors.   We also sampled the Rallini without meat or cheese.  Rallini are especially good as a sort of wine cracker.

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(photo: aroma stix made with extra virgin olive and tons of sesame seeds)

Aroma Antico also produces Aroma Stix, Pastelle - tea cookies, and Friselle.  Without sounding overtly bias, I didn't try a product that I didn't think was well made and incredibly authentic (in relation to the same varieties made in Italy).  The sesame seed Aroma Stix were particularly good (and full of sesame seeds!) and both my mother and wife enjoyed the tea cookies (and commented how "home made" the product tasted).  

You can order Aroma Antico products via their web site or via Amazon in 6 pack bundles (at a great $16.00 price).

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Do you remember what it was like to buy something?  No, I'm not talking about filling up the tank at your local gas station or going out and buying some other commodity, rather I'm talking about the important buying decisions (such as buying a new car, a new stove, a few cases of wine, etc.).  I threw the cases of wine into the example just to make sure you were paying attention (note I do take wine shopping seriously)!  What was common about buying stuff before the web came around was that, in most cases, you asked the opinion of a family member or neighbor before handing over your hard earned money.  Purchase factors like reliability, value, customer service, subjective experience with the product, etc. all play important roles in buying products and who better to tell you about how a product performs than a trusted friend or family member (can Amazon or Wal-Mart do this?).

With the above notion in mind, I've partnered with a new eCommerce shop called the OpenSky Project to help recommend products that I've personally used and endorse (read: really, really love).  Having written on the topics of living a practical life and saving money (it's, after all, what my immigrant parents taught me) earning an endorsement or recommendation from Scordo.com is no easy feat.  In fact, the items that you'll see in my personal OpenSky storefront have all been stellar performers in my household for years.  And none of the OpenSky shopkeepers are paid to promote any of the products sold in his/her shop; this is what makes the OpenSky so special and unique (you'll only see products that have been tested, used, and approved by passionate experts in their respective fields).  

For example, you'll see shops from Michael Ruhlman (the well known food expert) and KathEats.com (a blogger who shares her personal recipes, tips, and healthy lifestyle views).  What Kathie and Michael have in common is that the "stuff" they're selling is the stuff they use and love (period) - with no gimmicks or runarounds.  I hope you get the sense that I share the same viewpoint, namely, that my endorsement means I want to help share some of my favorite consumer products with my readers.

You can read more about OpenSky here, including a little bit about their operating principle and beliefs.

My storefront will continue to grow and I hope to begin offering some of the speciality items I've written about including salami, pasta, wine, coffee products, and other great home and garden items.  For now, you can have a look at the chef's knife I use to prepare all of my southern Italian meals (I've owned it for 10+ years) or the cutting board that I meticulously maintain after each use (it's 12 years young).  I also recommend a few larger kitchen appliances like my favorite hot water kettle (you'll be amazed at much I use the device, including coffee, tea, boiling water for pasta, etc.), mixer, and food processor.  

Have a look at the Scordo.com storefront on OpenSky and, if you need something for your home or kitchen, see if I have a suggestion (I promise only to share what I have used and tested in my own house).  
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(photo: incorporating olive oil, garlic, and parsley with spaghettini)

Update: Congrats to Susan for winning the contest.  The giveaway is closed.

Back in September of 2009, in my overview of dried pasta entry, I made the claim that dry pasta is NOT inferior to freshly made pasta (this is the type of pasta which I often make at home with my classic, hand cranked, Imperia pasta machine).  Don't get me wrong, I love homemade pasta, especially ravioli, but I don't exactly look forward to the work effort involved to make it at home.  There's the making of the dough, the flattening of the dough into sheets, cutting the pasta, and finally flowering and air drying the product.  The process is messy and unless you make large quantities it's tough to justify making pasta at home on a consistent basis (this is just one home cook's opinion, of course).  

Enter the revolutionary idea of dry pasta.  OK, maybe the idea of pre-packaged pasta isn't revolutionary but it's one of those food products that actually makes sense to acquire in an already completed fashion (read: not making it at home from scratch).   

Dry pasta has it's origin in 8th century southern Italy; specifically, in Palermo, Sicilia.  The most accepted theory of pasta being introduced in Italy is not via Marco Polo and China, but rather in Sicilia via one of the many Arab conquests of the 700's (this was a time period when the Middle East, part of North Africa, and the Iberian Peninsula all came under Arab rule).  Moreover, as the web site LifeinItaly.com states:

Like so much of southern Italian life, the Arab invasions of the 8th century heavily influenced the regional cuisine and is the most accepted theory for the introduction of pasta. The dried noodle-like product they introduced to Sicily is most likely the origins of dried pasta and was being produced in great quantities in Palermo at this time. The modern word "macaroni" derives from the Sicilian term for making dough forcefully, as early pasta making was often a laborious daylong process. How it was served is not truly known but many Sicilian pasta recipes still include other Arab gastronomic introductions such as raisins and spices like cinnamon. This early pasta was an ideal staple for Sicily and it easily spread to the mainland since durum wheat thrives in Italy's climate. Italy is still a major producer of this hard wheat, used to make the all-important semolina flour.

By the 1300's dried pasta was very popular for its nutrition and long shelf life, making it ideal for long ship voyages. Pasta made it around the globe during the voyages of discovery a century later. By that time different shapes of pasta have appeared and new technology made pasta easier to make. With these innovations pasta truly became a part of Italian life. 

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(photo: Rustichella pasta line up)

Fast-forward 700 years or so and there are an abundance of dry pastas on the market in both the US and in Italy/Europe.  The very best dry pastas are manufactured in Italy and are made with locally grown Durham wheat.  The hard Durham wheat is what yields semolina flour, which is used in all types of quality dry pastas.  In the US, the most common pasta brands are Ronzoni, Barilla, Colavita, De Cecco, etc.  Of the brands found in the typical US supermarket, De Cecco, in my view, is the best choice.  You can see De Cecco's quality via it's color and firmness out of the package and once you cook up a batch of linguine fine, for example, you can taste the quality in the semolina flour used.  

One readily available "luxury" pasta found at most Italian specialty shops (as well as Whole Foods) is a brand called, Rustichella d'Abruzzo. Rustichella sits along side other premium pasta brands such as Martelli, Latini, Benedetto, and Setaro.  The premium pasta brands command prices as high as $8.80 for 18 ounces (Bendetto), for example. Rusticella pasta commands a price of about $6.60 per 18 ounces (a little over a full pound) and is priced in the middle of the luxury pasta segment.  

I, along with various relatives from Calabria and Sicilia, had the pleasure of tasting 10 distinct Rustichella d'Abruzzo pastas, including Bucatini, Trofie, Cencioni, Paccheri, Linguine, Spaghettini, Penne, Rigatoncini, Trenne, and Farafalloni.   All of the Rustichella products are handmade and use Italian Durham wheat and spring water.  And according to Rustichella bronze moulds are used during the extraction process yielding a pasta with a course exterior texture (the logic here is that the condiment or sauce can better adhere to the pasta).  Another product differentiator according to Rustichella is that their "drying process is slow and takes place at a low temperature (up to 50 hours and at temperatures of around 35 degrees) which is the opposite to the industrial process, mass produced pastas, of 4/5 hours at 90 degrees."

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(photo: getting ready to chop garlic and parsley)

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(photo: raw garlic)

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(photo: parsley ready to chop)

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(photo: slowly frying some sliced garlic and red pepper flakes with extra virgin olive oil)

The first pasta I tried was spaghettini with a simple alio e olio sauce (olive oil, garlic, and parsley).  I choose a simple sauce because I wanted the pasta to be the star and the Rustichella spaghettini didn't disappoint.  Unlike mass produced pasta brands, the Rustichella spaghettini had a wonderful texture and had none of the "cardboard-like" taste found in brands like Ronzoni.  The spaghettini also had some wonderful nutty and malty flavor components, especially when sampling it without the sauce or condiment.  When I did mix the alio e olio with the spaghettini the pasta quickly absorbed the extra virgin olive oil and the tiny bits of parsley, garlic, and red pepper flakes hung closely to the pasta.  The idea of the sauce "sticking" or melding with pasta is a key concept and I look for this trait in any pasta.  A high quality pasta should also allow for the sauce to integrate into the overall texture of the product (think of those nasty cream cheese and celery appetizers you may have consumed at cocktail parties; the celery, however unfortunate, is a vessel for cream cheese, just like a good pasta, fortunately, is a vessel for the sauce or condiment).

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(photo: adding salt to pasta water at the boil)

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(photo: measuring pasta)

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(photo: drain pasta and save some of the starchy water for the condiment)

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Next, I sampled the Paccheri (smaller, and plain, rigatoni - no ridges) with a tomato sauce and again the pasta shined.  I was looking for the tomato sauce to slide off the pasta or for a little more blandness because of the larger size of the Paccheri, but the flavor was tremendous (kind of like a clean and crisp Sauvignon Blanc).  

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My extended family sampled the rest of the Rustichella pastas and all but a few of the pasta critics enjoyed the high quality and texture of the product.  Some of the more critical comments from family members centered on price point and similarity to De Cecco pasta.  More specifically, one Uncle couldn't justify price versus flavor (he was hinting at value and while he thought the product was of high quality he had concerns about why it was priced 2-3x that of other, typical, Italian brands like De Cecco).    

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(photo: do you think he will grow to like pasta?)

Pasta Content Giveaway!

As with any food experience the ultimate judgment comes by way of the consumer of the product and his or her relation to other, similar, products they've sampled.  So, Scordo.com has teamed up with Rustichella d'Abruzzo to offer one lucky Scordo.com reader a pasta sampler gift package consisting of 1 package each (4 total) of the following pastas: Linguine, Spaghettini ,Penne, and Paccheri.  I'm looking for you, the "end pasta user", to be the ultimate critic!  Here are the details on the pasta package giveaway contest:

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(photo: end product!)

- What you need to do to enter: 1. leave a comment under this post on a favorite pasta brand and shape (no, it doesn't need to be Rustichella!) and 2. sign up as a fan of Scordo.com on Facebook here or Scordo.com newsletter, it doesn't need to be both).  If you've done both already, then I'll ask you if you can please re-tweet the article on Twitter and include the article URL: http://bit.ly/ceTiVa and @scordo in your tweet)
 
- Only one entry per person please.

- The contest is open until 12 midnight on 2/6 and a single random user will be picked via Random.org.  The winner will be announced immediately on Twitter (so please follow me) and on Scordo.com by 5PM on Monday, 2/8.

- Please use a valid email address when leaving a comment so I can contact you just in case you're the lucky winner (I'll need your shipping address). 

- Manicaretti Italian Food Imports will send out the pasta package to the single contest winner during the week of 2/8.

That's it, so please sign up for a chance to win a sampler package of, quite possibly, one of the best food products on the planet (i.e., pasta)!  If you can't wait to sample Rustichella pasta you can buy it online here!

Also, be sure to search Scordo.com for a ton of pasta recipes!
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