Recently in italian products Category

(photo: our favorite Birra Moretti - the traditional lager) 

Just the other day I was having one of those peaceful moments informed only by the serene; including an unusually warm and sunny weather, a wonderful match featuring Juventas and Udinese, and a cold beer or birra.  I was consuming Birra Moretti, the iconic Italian brew with the old man with mustache on the label and, without knowing it, originally produced in Udine (the Fruili region of Italy) and the team taking on powerhouse Juventas in an important Serie A match up.   Juventas went on to win the match and remain undefeated, while Udinese will live to fight another day.   Needless to say, I went on to finish my birra and take a nap!

(photo: Wild Fennel Seed (Semi di Finocchietto Selvatico) from Sicilia; you can use the seed as is or crush it via a mortar and pestle for savory and sweet dishes)

Wild fennel, or Finocchietto Selvatico, can be found throughout most parts of southern Italy and is part of the staple diet for many Calabrians, Sicilians, etc.  My father tells romantic stories of foraging for wild fennel in the Calabrian countryside just southeast of Pellegrina.  Wild fennel, unlike domesticated fennel, doesn't contain a white bulb and is prized mostly for the fronds it produces in the springtime along with the edible seeds.  Wild fennel fronds can be chopped and used in minestra or as a flavoring agent for a pasta dish made with pork sausage, for example.
(photo:  The lovely Taggiasca olive from Liguria in northwestern Italy) 

We often talk about the importance of the Italian pantry and how critical it is to have certain staple ingredients in your kitchen at all times.  Keeping a well stocked pantry means you'll never starve, order out, and be relegated to a peanut butter and jelly sandwich for dinner.  Among the universal items we keep in our kitchen/pantry are olives; specifically, Taggiasca and Castelvetrano varieties.
 
(photo: the highly prized white truffle - courtesy of Alma Gourmet)

Truffle Primer 

One of my favorite aspects of visiting Italy in the Summer and Fall months is the abundance of festivals scattered throughout the country.  In Calabria alone, for example, the summer months include food festivals focused on bread, salt cod, wild boar, eggplant, red chiles, potato, etc.  Northern Italy is no different and the Piedmonte and Umbria regions include various festivals including multiple feasts celebrating the truffle (tartufi) during the Fall months.

Truffles are highly prized in the culinary world and given their price point, especially the rarer white truffle, most home cooks are priced out of this wonderful delicacy.  Truffles, like the closely associated mushroom, have an elaborate root system, however truffles never grow above surface. Truffles usually grow near trees and in Italy oak, willow and linden trees are popular species that support truffle production (with each tree imparting a different flavor to a given truffle variety).  


One of my favorite ways to eat is to simply head to the market and pick out items that look fresh, tasty, and don't break the bank.  Don't get me wrong I'm not heading to the market every other day (like Nonna and Mamma did/do) but I usually reserve a mid week shopping trip to supplement my usually Saturday shopping trip. 


Update: Contest closed; the winner has been notified.  

Scordo.com has partnered with our friends over at ItalianBarber.com for a great giveaway, sorry ladies this one is geared towards men who can grow facial hair (but read on if you want to win a great gift for your boyfriend or husband!).

ItalianBarber.com is run by two second-generation Italians who live via the La Bella Figura philosophy or "how one looks, how one smells, how one carries oneself; basically, making the best possible impression in all things, all the time."  For most Italians, La Bella Figura is as important as eating and live well and my mother drilled the concept into me from a very early age.   ItalianBarber.com carries a wide variety of grooming products with a focus on Italian personal care products, from soaps and shaving products, to fragrances, colognes and grooming accessories.
(photo:Italian durum wheat pasta made by Carlo)

When it comes to reviewing Italian products we're pretty blunt and we've, unfortunately, offended a few Italian product manufacturers with not so positive feedback.  In fact, when companies approach us to review already prepared products we often turn them away for fear of writing yet another negative review.  In turn, many of our favorite Italian products are simple and basic items like extra virgin olive oils, artisan pastas, salumi, cheese, canned items, etc.  There are exceptions like Gelato Di babbo, Aroma Antico tarallini, etc. but you won't find us talking about canned tomato sauce or frozen Italian meals produced by large consumer packaged good companies.  

So, with the above in mind, I was skeptical when Lee Greene approached us about giving our honest feedback on the products her company, The Scrumptious Pantry, produces.  I was expecting yet another jarred tomato sauce or even worse some sudo seasonal Italian American junk full of preservative with a long shelf life.  What I discovered was the complete opposite; namely, basic food made with care on small, family run, farms in Italy and America.  

(photo: the author of Cucina Povera, Pamela Sheldon Johns)

If you were to tell people that Italy and America have a few things in common you'd most likely receive some awkward stares.  After all, America is a country driven by capitalism and rationality while Italy operates under a lifestyle driven worldview with importance placed on living well and understanding the subtleties of day to day existence (at least outside of large cities like Milan, Rome, and Turin!).      

With the above in mind, Pamela Sheldon Johns reminds us that there may, in fact, be some similarities in how we live in both the United States and Italy.  Pamela, through her new cookbook Cucina Povera - Tuscan Peasant Cooking, recounts her mother's days on a Midwest farm during the Great Depression, using everything around her and not wasting a single fruit or leftover.  Pam also describes the same tendencies in Tuscan women, having moved to to Tuscany to establish culinary workshops and write countless cookbooks.  So, maybe there's more in common between the two countries than we think!
 
(photo: the cover of Impariamo l'Italiano con l'Aiuto della Mano! <Let's Learn Italian with the Help of our Hand!> by Giuliana Sica)

When folks discover that I have an Italian last time and parents who were born in Italy they immediately ask if I speak Italian.  My answer is a definitive yes though I always qualify my fluency with the fact that I grew up speaking a regional, southern Italian, dialect (my Italian has become more formal since my childhood days, however).  

Dialects, of course, are examples of full blown languages with formal syntax and speakers of a Sicilian or Calabrian dialect, for example, should be proud of their ability.  In fact, the formal Italian spoken in Italy today developed from the 14th century dialect of Toscana (mostly because it varies least from classical Latin and the Floretine culture was, at the time, producing great works of literature via Boccaccio and Dante).

You have to love any establishment that sells over 200,000 pounds of Italian cheese in a given week, in turn we've fallen deeply in love with the Pittsburgh based, Pennsylvania Macaroni Company.  The Italian food store was started in 1902 by Sicilian immigrants from Trabia and they now carry well over 5,000 Italian specialty items, including an online business that will slice imported salumi and cheese for you and ship it anywhere in the United States!
 
(photo: note the wonderful golden brown color of the Colatura di Alici)

What takes 12 months to age and is extracted during an age old curing process, hint it's not a pork product (cue the Jeopardy music).  The answer is Colatura di Alici or anchovy syrup and is produced by Ittica Alimentare Salerno, located in the small village of Cetara, south of Naples, on the Amalfi coast.  Note, not all anchovy sauces or syrups age for 12 months; in fact, most only age about 6 months.  

Colatura di Alici is essentially an Italian fish sauce, though much richer and aromatic than typical Asian fish sauces, that is made by capturing anchovy juice during the curing process (there are no additives or preservatives, though salt is present given the curing process).  Colatura di Alici is Italy's answer to umami.
 
(photo: spaghetti chitarra with tomato sauce, ricotta, and peas; see below for recipe)

The now immortalized copywriter turned French cook Julia Child remarked once that, "anyone can make a bowl of pasta but it takes a skilled chef to put out a fine French meal."  You can imagine my reaction to the quote and my thinking on Child's comment; namely, she's full of rubbish, to put in mildly.  

The act of making pasta, to address the specific attack on Italian food, is not a simple task.  Preparing a dish such as linguine fine with pesto requires that the home cook understands when to pick fresh basil (did you know basil becomes more and more bitter as you pick more leaves?), how much olive oil to add to the pesto mixture, how long to cook the pasta, how much starchy water to save and add to the condiment, how much extra virgin olive oil to add to the final step of marrying pasta with condiment, how much heat to apply to the mixing of pasta and condiment so as not to destroy the basil flavor, what sort of grated cheese to use, etc.  


(photo: courtesy of Dr K., the home dehydrating process for tomatoes)

The following is a guest post from our friend and loyal fan, Dr. K.  Click here for all of Dr. K.'s guest posts.

You don't have to be an Italian or of Italian descent to recognize the heralded position that the tomato holds in the pantheon of Italian cuisine.  But without some careful planning, it is not possible for most Americans to enjoy fresh, high quality tomatoes year round if you're living in the United States.  Store bought tomatoes just don't make the grade (if you want to know more about what you're seeing in the grocery store in January, beware).
 
As we enter the waning days of summer and you've had your fill of tomato salad, Caprese salad, and fresh tomato sauce on your pastas and pizzas, you may be searching for a way to preserve some of nature's bounty so that you may enjoy that great tomato taste throughout the colder months.  Passato is an excellent way to enjoy the summer tomato crop in sauces, stews, soups, and braises year round, and you can find wonderfully detailed descriptions of how to can tomatoes here on Scordo.com.  Canning whole tomatoes is another popular way to enjoy tomatoes in the winter.  As a simpler alternative, you can also peel and freeze tomatoes whole, and thaw them out to use for cooking (these aren't eaten raw due to textural changes from the canning or freezing processes). 
 
(photo: the ScordoFrappuccino)

I'm not a big fan of Starbucks, but I do respect the chain for promoting the concept of a "cafe" or, as Europeans say, "bar" experience in the United States (the "bar" experience in Italy isn't, of course, about sofas, extra large portions, and wanna be Existentialists, but, like most things American, we can't leave well enough alone).  

While Starbucks has certainly aimed to open cafes in every town and city in the US, it hasn't done much to spread the word about high quality espresso.  That is to say, outside of the larger cities (and enlighted medium sized cities and towns like Portsmouth, NH, Burlington, VT, Madison, WI, Amherst, MA and various places on the West Coast) it's very difficult to find a proper espresso, caffè latte, or cappuccino.  Click here for my definition of a "proper espresso."


One of the nicest aspects of visiting Calabria during the summer and early Fall is the abundance of fresh fruit available and the ease of securing it.   Consider, for example, that if you're lucky enough to own a small parcel of land, and the desire to cultivate it, you'll be guaranteed seculant peaches, pears, grapes, plums, and figs from March through the beginning of October.  

My favorite Calabrian fruit is the fig and while we were lucky enough to eat a few figs during our last week in Pellegrina , we missed the prime fig season by a few weeks.  The Dottato fig variety (or Kadota in the US) is the most common in Calabria and is usually found from the 2nd week of August into September (it's also my personal favorite).  The Dottato fig has green skin and a white / golden interior.  The flesh is creamy, sweet, and bright tasting.  The dottato fig variety is also a good choice for drying.  
 
(photo: small block of Pecorino "Monte Poro" from Calabria)

Sit down for a meal at any restaurant or home in Calabria and you'll most likely encounter some variation of sheep's milk cheese; specifically, Pecorino.  During our recent trip to Calabria, for example, we ate Pecorino 4-5x per week and often mixed in a platter with local salumi and olives.

(photo: we sampled the Villa Cappelli orange conserve with Greek yogurt and local blueberries)

The Greeks, like the Italians, treat ingredients with great respect and they do very little in the way of manipulation when preparing dishes.  Take, for example, the way Greeks consume yogurt with a simple fruit conserve or compote.  Often the yogurt is served in a bowl with some conserve, often cherry, fig, or a berry variation.  The dish is wonderful as a quick breakfast or even as a simple dessert following a large meal.  

 
(photo: beautiful bread is a work of art and our reader Dr. K is a maestro!  photo courtesy of Dr. K.)

I have to admit that I get very jealous of folks who bake with great success as I've been slow to experiment with baking bread, for example.   And it's also why I'm incredibly thankful for skilled Scordo readers like Dr. K. who specialize in whole wheat bread baking and other, from scratch, food products and homemade goods (Dr. K., for example, makes his own yogurt, roasts his own coffee beans, produces his own goat cheese, and whips up homemade Nutella)

Dr. K.'s latest bread product is the Kamut, whole wheat, sourdough loaf.  Kamut is a type of Khorasan wheat which is one of the oldes types of grains on the planet; a modern version of Khorasan wheat is Durum which is most often used in pasta roduction.  The most common type of wheat is hexaploid which includes spelt, modern bread wheat, and soft wheat used for cookies and cakes.   Italy is the largest market in the world for Kamut (Khorasan) wheat (half of what is produced annually is sold there and most commonly used to produce cereals, breads, pastas, snacks, etc.). 
 
(photo: Sangaspano extra virgin olive oil from Messina, Sicilia)

On the morning of December 28th, 1908 a massive earthquake and associated tsunami hit the western province of Calabria and moved across the Stretto di Messina into Sicilia destroying city after city (including Reggio Calabria and Messina).  In Messina alone 60,000 people were killed and in Calabria our family lost many people, including small children.  In total, over 100,000 people were killed in 1908 making it the deadliest earthquake in European history.    

Prior to the earthquake, Messina was home to ancient architecture and a vibrant port.   And although the city did re-build, it was bombed extensively in 1943 by the Allies killing thousounds of Italians.  However not all of the goings-on within the Province of Messina are gloomy.  For example, the olive oil producer Sangaspano is located in the hills of Valle del Mela overlooking the Gulf of Milazzo and the islands of Stromboli and Panarea.  The land and region is beautiful and the extra virgin olive oils coming out of Sicilia rival some of the best Tuscan oils.
 
(photo: some of the items in the Cento Italian Pantry Giveaway, including pasta, olive oil, hot peppers, etc.)

Last summer I espoused the virtues of the Italian pantry and the concept of being prepared to cook and eat well every day of the year regardless of access to "fresh ingredients."  Specifically, I suggested lovers of Italian food keep a well stocked pantry including varying dry pasta shapes, canned fish, cheese and salumi, beans, etc. so that a quick meal can be put together on the fly and, more importantly, independent of visiting your local restaurant or take out establishment.  

The well stocked pantry has a special place in my heart because the Italian homes I grew up in, including my grandmother and mother's kitchens, never lacked staples for creating wonderful, and simple, meals.  My grandmother's pantry, as an example, included homemade pickled vegetables (i.e., eggplant, carrots, green tomatoes, spicy peppers), oil cured sun dried tomatoes, provola, 2-3 variations of salumi, oil cured black olives, larger green olives, salt cod, pasta, dry beans, twice baked bread with a long shelf life, etc.  Many of the items in the pantry were homemade and represented a way of living and eating that was tied to life in Calabria during 1940-1970's; including the basic principles of eating on the cheap, eating well, and preparing your own food.
(photo: grapes in Calabria, thanks to Pierro Morello for the photo)

A Student of Italian Wine 

Dan Amatuzzi is a modest guy when it comes to wine.  And modesty isn't the word that comes to mind when you consider Dan served as the sommelier at Del Posto in New York City with an estimated 2300 bottles of wine and arguably the most comprehensive Italian wine list ever conceived at a single restaurant.  Moreover, Dan was the wine director at OTTO restaurant and is currently the Manager of the beverage department at Eataly in New York City.   

So, Dan knows Italian wines, right? Yes, Dan is an Italian wine expert but if you ask him what he is he'll tell you he's a student of wine (and a nice guy).  The word student implies Dan needs to continue learning and refine his skill set when it comes to wine and it's a great mind set to have when working in the wine world; in fact, it's a great life philosophy (period).
(photo: 2010 Olio Verde extra virgin olive oil from Sicilia, I had to scramble and take a photo before I consumed it all!)
 
Any time I'm asked to taste a product from the southern provinces of Italy I get excited, very excited.  There's of course a sense of pride knowing a product is made from an area you know well and have a connection with; in fact, I get the same sensation when I taste anything made with care from New Jersey (e.g., tomatoes, beer, diner food, etc.).  

New Jersey, of course, doesn't have the terroir or climate of western Sicilia so the Garden State cannot produce world class extra virgin olive oil like Gianfranco Becchina of Olio Verde does in the province of Trapani (Castelvetrano).  Becchina uses 100 percent Nocellara del Belice olives (not native to Jersey) which are harvested earlier in the season (October as opposed to November) because Gianfranco is going for a fruitier oil.  The olives are also harvested by hand and not shaken by way of a machine (the claim is that fruit bruising is limited thus the fruit doesn't begin to ripen) and grown without the use of pesticides.  
 
(photo: thanks to drinkspirits.com for the image.  the label and packaging is top notch on the Amaro Nonino)

If I haven't mentioned it here on Scordo.com my father is a dyed-in-the-wool grappa fanatic.  In fact, he's grown so found of the elixir made from sugar and grape stems he produces a limited quantity batch for his immediate family and select friends.  So, it wasn't with great surprise when I brought over a bottle of Amaro Nonino Quintessentia on a recent weekend that my father proclaimed it to be the best amaro on the planet!

For all of the amari novices out there (please don't feel bad) Amaro Nonino Quintessentia is made from grappa infused with herbs, plus grain alcohol, and ingredients that include caramelized sugar, bitter orange, cinchona, galenga, gentian, liquorice, quassia wood, rhubarb, saffron, sweet orange and tamarind.  And like many amari it's a stew of exotic flavors and ingredients.  My father enjoyed Nonino because the high quality grappa component (made from a blend of Ribolla, Traminer and Verduzzo grapes) and all of the luscious herbs.  On my end, I gravitated more towards the sweet and burnt orange characteristics of the Fruili made amaro
 
(photo: packaging is first rate, if not a little wasteful) 

We've covered the pasta shape tagliatelle here on Scordo.com in the past (via the Scordo Pasta Challenge) but we decided to review the pasta shape one more time given the quality of Caponi Pontedera tagliatelle and the fact that it's an egg based pasta (pasta all'uovo).  

Pastificio Caponi is a Tuscan pasta factory (located in Pontedera) headed by two brothers, Andrea e Alessandro Tagliagambe.  Caponi produces dried egg pasta and utilizes Canadian durum wheat flour because they believe the wheat has a high intake of protein.  Caponi's pasta utilizes fresh eggs and and is cut by hand by a single craftsmen/women.  The drying process at Caponi takes an amazing 70-80 hours at room temperature.
(photo: Averna on the rocks with a slice of orange)

Averna, the amaro and aperitif/digestif from, and still produced in, Sicilia, is a bona fide rock-star.   Yes, like Bono, Freddie Mercury, or Roger Waters, Averna makes you tingle all over and has you wondering how anything can be (taste) so damn good.  

For those of you not in the know, Averna is a Sicilian liqueur made of herbs, roots, and citrus rinds which are soaked in alcohol; caramel is also added to give the product a distinct color.  Averna was founded in 1868 by Salvatore Averna and is still produced by the same family.  Averna is usually served straight (on the rocks) with a slice of orange and is 32% alc/volume (64 proof).  There are also some classic cocktails made with Averna including Vertigo, the mojito Italiano, and the Sicilian triangle.

(photo: Our pizza sauce is quickly cooked with dried oregano, extra virgin olive oil, Kosher salt, and freshly ground black pepper).

I've always stuck to the claim that you can make pretty good pizza at home.  My critics argue that making "pizzeria" type pizza in a home environment is impossible given that a home stove cannot reach the 900+ degree Fahrenheit temperature a proper wood burning stove can and, moreover, impart the appropriate flavor and heat to pizza dough.  I think my critics are, in theory, correct but in a pragmatic sense entirely wrong.  That is to say, of course one can make fantastic pizza at home without a wood burning oven.    
(photo: close up of a few Villa Cappelli sun dried tomatoes in olive oil)

One of the most important aspects of a product claiming to, in fact, be "sun dried tomatoes" is that the tomatoes are indeed dried by the sun.  We're so adamant about proper sun dried tomatoes because we produce our own variety cured in extra virgin olive oil.  The sun dried tomatoes hail from Pellegrina, Calabria and are dried by the intense Mediterranean sun.  Specifically, my grandmother lays out hundreds of hand quartered roma, plum or San Marzano tomatoes on large woven baskets with a bit of sea salt and lets mother nature do the rest.  The tomatoes dry in 2-3 days depending on the intensity of the sun.  
 
(photo: left to right: Creminelli felino, sopressa,mocetta, Calabrese, Milano)

The Working Life and the Italian Deli

I've held many odd jobs as a young lad including garbage man, janitor, landscaper, handy man assistant, electrician's assistant, travel agent, HTML editor, maintenance man at a women's clothing shop, and, my personal favorite, salumi slicer / panino maker at Zia Teressa's beloved bottega di generi alimentari (Italian speak for deli).

The jobs I held as a teenager were all near and dear to my heart even if I didn't realize the positive impact cleaning an elementary school lunch room, picking up foul garbage at five in morning, and handing tools to my intense father would have later in life.  All of my early hands on work, as opposed to my formal education, taught me the value of money, getting along with people, and showing up on time.  

One of my favorite ways to consume olive oil is via the simple and humble tomato salad.  Our tomato salad is prepared with red onion, basil, dried oregano, Kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper and the best extra virgin olive oil we can get our hands on.  

Recently, we've fallen in love with two extra virgin olive oils that seem to have been made just for tomato salads (and, by association, whole milk mozzarella).  Specifically, we're talking about Pace da Poggio Etrusco and Laudemio Frescobaldi.  The Pace de Poggio Etrusco hails from Siena in Toscana and has a slightly sweet character along with floral and herbal notes.  The Laudemio Frescobaldi (first pressing, 2010) from Chianti Ruffina has peppery notes and reminds me of the many spring vegetables such as artichoke, asparagus, and peas.   


(photo: close up of our spinach risotto)  

I've been meaning to post our spinach risotto recipe for about two years now so this is one overdue article.  Spinach risotto is an ideal representation of what finely cooked Arborio or Carnaroli rice is all about, namely, creamy and buttery texture.  The spinach in the recipe below adds another layer of silky consistency and the green color emitted from the spinach makes this a beautiful dish as well.  You can serve spinach risotto as a starter or as a side to roasted pork, fish, or beef.
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Homemade Sun Dried Tomatoes in Olive Oil Recipe
Don't settle for the canned varieties found at supermarkets; find out how to make your own [+]


How to Make Authentic Tomato Sauce
This is the authentic Scordo family recipe - straight from Calabria. You'll be amazed at how simple the recipe is to make [+]


Guide to Italian Extra Virgin Olive Oil
My grandfather produced his own extra virgin olive oil in Italy and I've put together an olive oil buying guide just for you [+]


How to Make Rice Balls or Arancini At Home
The ultimate Italian street food - these fried treats are great for the holidays or for any lunch or dinner; try them with your kids [+]


Guide to Making Espresso at Home
Making good espresso at home isn't easy but once you master a few easy tips you'll never settle for the junk served at most cafes in the US, including Starbucks [+]


Why You Should Not Eat Out
My argument on why eating out doesn't make sense [+]


Guide to Italian Meats: Salame, Capicola, Prosciutto, etc.
Learn all about the great "deli meats" and authentic cured specialties from Italy [+]


Scordo Pizza Recipe
Who doesn't love pizza, but did you know it's real easy to make at home [+]

 


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