Recently in kitchen Category

 

(photo: various food mills; ours is the top left above)

Over the last few weeks or so I've been giving some serious thought to purchasing a semi automatic espresso machine.  My rationale for buying a home machine (including a burr grinder) includes two premises: 1. it's very hard to find quality espresso at cafes (even in major cities like New York with a large European population) and 2. I love and crave espresso on a daily basis. 

What is Good Espresso?

As I've said in the past, and like most frugal (and lazy) Italians, I use my army of Bialetti stove top espresso makers to satisfy my craving; however, stove top machines do not produce true espresso (I've also tried single cup or handheld espresso devices,such as the Handpresso and the MyPressi Twist).  A "proper" espresso has an orange/brown color, a good crema head (though this is an overrated quality in my view), and the right balance of nutty, sweet, and slightly acidic and tart flavors.  Most espresso made in the US (including both Starbucks and high end cafes) make espresso that is either overdrawn (that is to say, too watery) or underdrawn (that is to say, too thick and syrupy).  Specifically, by over and underdrawn I mean the amount of time the barrista allows the pressurized water to run through portafilter (that is, the portion of the espresso machine that holds the ground coffee, see the Espressoguy.com for a great diagram).  Allowing the water to run through the portafilter too fast produces too much espresso that is often watery, bitter, and full of way too much caffeine (you've probably had this experience at a restaurant when the waiter returns with a "coffee mug" full of "espresso" or when you ask for a single shot and they return with the equivalent of 4-5 proper, single, shots).  Conversely, when the barrista runs water through the portafilter at a slower rate you usually end up with a muddy and overly thick espresso (Italians do have a word for a portion of espresso smaller than a single shot; namely, ristretto, but this is almost impossible to find in the United States). 

Can You Make Good Espresso at Home?

Producing top quality espresso is about understanding how your specific semi automatic machine works, grinding beans to the proper consistency, getting the boiler in your espresso machine to the correct temperature, and getting the right amount of water through the portafilter.  Sounds complicated, right?  Well, good espresso does require: 1., good equipment, 2. good coffee beans that are ground appropriately for each serving, and 3. good technique.

Equipment, Beans, and Technique



On the equipment side, you have the choice of a 1. manual, 2. semi automatic, and 3. fully automatic machines.  Manual machines require that the end user produce his or her own pressure (usually via a lever) and are, generally, fairly difficult to use and, in turn, produce an inconsistent and mediocre cup of espresso (at least in my experience, but I'm sure you can get good results).  Semi automatic machines (such as the Silvia Rancillo or the Le'Lit PL041) have a built in boiler (the good ones include a brass boiler for heat retention), water tray, a few thermostats, and the ability to steam and froth milk for other espresso based drinks.  A fully automatic machine (such as the Jura Capresso Impressa C9) will basically make a cup of espresso for you and also wash your car (just joking!); specifically, a fully automatic will grind, tamp, pull, serve, and clean all via the push of a button.  The consensus in the espresso industry is that semi automatic machines produce the best shots, but they also require the most skill and prep work (as I said above, including grinding your own beans to the right consistency, tamping the ground espresso with the correct pressure, properly heating all of the machine components, and pulling the correct shot). 

Like any type of coffee, your cup is only going to be as good as the beans you purchase and grind yourself.  If you're seriosly considering getting into making quality coffee at home (whether it's the French Press variety or espresso) you should probably get the idea of pre-ground coffee out of your head.  And if you're very serious about coffee you may want to roast your own beans as bean freshness is tied to quality (almost 1:1). Grinding coffee beans just before use is also critical as well as getting the correct grind given the application (course for French Press for example and fine for for Espresso); burr grinders such as the Rancilio Rocky produce great results but are expensive.  By the way, espresso beans are no different than normal coffee beans, they're just roasted to a darker stage and ground to a fine state.  Fresh and filtered water is also important for good quality coffee.

On the technique side you can read about and aim to perfect pulling the perfect espresso shot over a lifetime or two.  And even with the best semi-automatic machine pulling a good shot will most likely entail a huge learning curve.  So, while I mentioned that I'm currently considering purchasing an espresso machine and grinder for home use, you can probably tell by now that both using and acquiring such machines would require a big investment (and not just financial).  In turn, I'll most likely hold off on mastering the art of espresso at home (looks like the Italians who use their Bialetto stovetop device at home have the right mindset after all).

Don't forget my reviews of:

• AeroPress Coffee Maker
• Chemex Coffee Maker

(photo: street scene in Bagnara Calabra, courtesy of myworldshots.com )

I'm going to make a statement that may upset serious cooks, but here goes: It's almost impossible to cook foods from other places in the world outside of their place of origin.  I'm not stating an absolute truth because you can get pretty damn close to replicating a pizza from Naples for example; maybe importing a wood burning stove (along with olive wood or some other exotic species to get the right temperature), specialty flour, San Marzano tomatoes, and bottled water from Italy, but at the end of the day it's just not going to taste the same as, say, a pizza made in Italy. 

There are intangibles when experiencing a given food, including the physical environment, the person preparing the food item, and, of course, the psychological state the eater is in.  For example, if you're on vacation in August in Bagnara Calabra facing the Stretto di Messina in Southern Italy and you order a pizza and a cold beer at a local eatery, you're going to consume a pizza made with fresh mountain water, just harvested tomatoes, and first cold pressed olive oil from one of the surrounding villages.  You'll also be sun-burnt and famished because you've spent a few hours on Bagnara's famous Violet Coast.  In other words, that pizza will most likely be the best you've ever tasted. 


(photo: courtesy of Artisan Books)

My point above is not to discourage you from cooking Italian food in the US, but rather to make a subtle point that all Italian food made in the US is "Italian-American" food (this, to get fancy with a philosophical term, is an a priori truth <i.e., a truth independent of experience!>).  I cook Italian-American food, my mother cooks Italian-American food, and Mario Batali, for example, cooks Italian-American food. 


(photo: courtesy of Artisan Books)

Frank Falcinelli and Frank Castronovo cook classic Italian-American food (by way of their families) and they are both extremely proud of the cuisine they serve each and every night at their restaurant.   And, although, I have not eaten at their Carol Gardens, Brooklyn restaurant Frankies Spuntino, they rightly situate the "American" in the "Italian-American" food category (that is to say, their recipes and cooking style focus on the classics of Italian American cuisine, rather than to try and bring "authentic" Italian fare to it's customers which, to my point above, is impossible in the US!)

Falcinelli and Castronovo recently published their first cookbook entitled, "The Frankies Spuntino Kitchen Companion and Cooking Manual" and the book hits on a few terrific themes including bringing the classic dishes prepared in their Brooklyn restaurant into your home kitchen. 



The book, which is beautifully produced and leather-bound, has terrific illustrations and includes sections on cooking equipment and the Italian pantry, as well as a wonderful chapter on the philosophy of "Sunday Sauce." The same chapter has a brilliant timelines of how to go about constructing a traditional Italian meal on Sunday (this section would make any engineer proud!). 

Other recipes included in the cookbook (really a "cooking manual) are Linguine with Fava Beans, Garlic, Tomato and Bread Crumb, Sardine, Blood Orange, and Puntarelle Salad, Cipollini Onion Vinaigrette, Roasted Eggplant, Braised Pork Shank with Gigante Beans and Rosemary.  Falcinelli and Castronovo have produced an excellent, all around, cookbook and it may be the only Italian-American cookbook you'll ever need to use in your kitchen!   In fact, why don't you enter to win a chance to receive your very own copy the The Frankie Spuntino Kitchen Companion!  Here's what you need to do:

- Only one entry per person please.

- The contest is open until 12 midnight on 9/20 and a single (1) random user will be picked via Random.org (sorry contest only open to folks from the US given shipping logistics).  The winner will be announced immediately on Twitter (so please follow me) and on Scordo.com by 8PM on Friday, 9/21.

- Requirements (both are needed): 1. Become a fan of Scordo.com on Facebook (if you're a fan already please "share" the page on your Facebook account) and 2. leave a comment on an experience you've had where a dish/food item was incredible because of the location / atmosphere. 

- Artisan Books will send out the book to a single contest winner during the week of 9/27.