Driving on the A3 autostrada from the Reggio Calabria airport to the village of Pellegrina (a tiny Comune di Bagnara Calabra) my mood changes instantly. I'm greeted by a penetrating sun, flowing sea breezes, and intoxicating smells of earth. The greeting has come courtesy of Calabria, the terra of my parents and the very foundation of my soul.
Recently in Italy Category
Driving on the A3 autostrada from the Reggio Calabria airport to the village of Pellegrina (a tiny Comune di Bagnara Calabra) my mood changes instantly. I'm greeted by a penetrating sun, flowing sea breezes, and intoxicating smells of earth. The greeting has come courtesy of Calabria, the terra of my parents and the very foundation of my soul.
On the morning of December 28th, 1908 a massive earthquake and associated tsunami hit the western province of Calabria and moved across the Stretto di Messina into Sicilia destroying city after city (including Reggio Calabria and Messina). In Messina alone 60,000 people were killed and in Calabria our family lost many people, including small children. In total, over 100,000 people were killed in 1908 making it the deadliest earthquake in European history.
We've covered the pasta shape tagliatelle here on Scordo.com in the past (via the Scordo Pasta Challenge) but we decided to review the pasta shape one more time given the quality of Caponi Pontedera tagliatelle and the fact that it's an egg based pasta (pasta all'uovo).

By now you know my connection to the region of Calabria in southern Italy and my familiar, immigrant, story. You know, for example, my parents immigrated to the U.S. from a tiny hilltop village in southwest Calabria called Pellegrina in the 1970's and that I've been influenced greatly by the traditions found in the region. However, I've never told our loyal Scordo.com audience what I specifically love about Calabria, so here are the five things I love about Calabria and, in turn, the Italian life (and yes there are negative aspects about the Province but I'll save those observations for another post):
(photo: typical Christmas Eve dinner table here in the US)
Christmas is just around the corner and if you're celebrating an "Italian Christmas" then you've most likely heard of the Feast of the Seven Fishes. The traditional Christmas Eve dinner is steeped in folk tradition and as Maria Laurino writing for the NY Times has said, the ritual varies from region to region, including the number and type of fish served.
A frame bridge combines elements of an arch bridge and a beam bridge. In an arch bridge, the support follows a continuous curve from one foundation to another. In a frame bridge, the road deck is supported by two inclined piers that are straight. These two struts usually support 3 horizontal beam spans that carry the roadway on top.
To construct Sfalassà, the two struts were built vertically like a 50 story skyscraper and then lowered out over either side of the gorge to an angle of approximately 50 degrees. Held back by a large temporary truss and several cable stays, the struts finally supported the roadway after the central span was completed. The design is credited to Silvano Zorzi, Lucio Lonardo and Sabatino Procaccia.


What is Cucina Povera?
A friend recently asked me to explain the concept of cucina povera and here's the working definition I came up with :
How to Cook in the Style of Cucina Povera
(photo: by Piero Morello. Children in Calabrian classroom.)
One of the great appeals of living in a country like Italy is that daily life is truly enjoyed. That is to say, a stroll by the sea, a day hunting with friends, or a simple prank in a classroom is seen as a form of fulfillment or happiness.
The following photos were all taken by a photographer named Piero Morello who lives in Reggio Calabria (near my parent's hometown of Pellegrina). Piero shoots mostly in black and white and captures that wonderful simplicity and beauty that is the simple art of living in Calabria, like many areas of Italy.
Enjoy the photos:
(photo: by Piero Morello. Hunter and dog)
(photo: by Piero Morello. Grapes on vine)
(photo: by Piero Morello. Hunter and dog)
(photo: by Piero Morello. Hunters walking.)
(photo: by Piero Morello. Hunter.)

(photo: by Piero Morello. Sea near Bagnara Calabra.)

Amongst southern Italians there's a deep rivalry between Calabrians and Sicilians. If you travel to Calabria's old capital Reggio Calabria, you'll see many Sicilian influences from the regional dialect to arancini and the breakfast delicacy brioce (a type of sweet bread that is served with a scoop of ice cream). Both regions have unyielding loyalty to their traditions and way of life and it's not entirely clear what food or cultural item or tradition originated in which region (at least that's what the locals will tell you).
My mother still talks about smothering freshly made, and still hot, bread with Nonno's extra virgin olive oil as do a few Sicilian aunts (with similar bread and oil from their small villages on the Island adjacent to Calabria). Recently, I had the pleasure of tasting an olive oil made from organically grown olives in Trapani, Sicily (situated on the western coast of the Island, near Palermo). Produced under the Frankies 45 brand name (by the same family operating two Italian American restaurants in Brooklyn and Manhattan), the oil is made from first cold pressed green Nocarella del Belice olives and has a good bright and spicy flavor profile. The oil has very good fruit and a minimal spicy aftertaste, making it a good introductory oil and also well suited for general use (in salads, as a base for any number of pasta sauces, and sautéing vegetables and meats). Frankies 457 Extra Virgin Olive Oil is mono-varietal, (or single varietal), certified organic, and unfiltered (it's style of production is DOP certified). The oil comes in a 1 liter, uniquely designed bottle and at $32.00 it's a good bargain.
The following post is a long time in the making. For a few months now I've been wanting to share a list of some of the top, Italian-themed, sites and blogs on the web.
4. Calabrisella Mia

August is prime season for canning tomatoes and this year's Jersey plum tomatoes are outstanding! The Scordo family purchased about five bushels of locally grown plum tomatoes and canned only passato (passato is essentially pureed tomato, in the past we canned a combination of passato and whole tomatoes). As the site e-rcps.com points out:
Tomatoes are usually preserved in three different forms, each of which has its particular uses. First there are the ordinary tinned or bottled whole tomatoes, 1. pomodori pelati, which contain a high percentage of liquid and are best used for dishes that require a tomato base but need a long cooking time. Secondly there is the puree, 2. passato di pomodoro, which is a much thicker reduction of tomatoes, sometimes flavoured with celery, onion, carrot and basil, then called pomaruola or conserva. This is ideal for sauces which need a rich body of tomato. Thirdly there is the tomato concentrate, 3. concentrato di pomodoro, which is the tomato reduced to a very strong paste and flavour and is useful for colour and flavour in a dish where bulk tomato is not required.
The advantage to canning passato is that when it comes time to make tomato sauce for dinner or lunch, there is no need to food mill whole tomatoes!
(photos: cutting the plum tomatoes into sections and removing some of the seeds)
Think of Pappardelle as fettuccine (see our guide to dry pasta) on steroids (basically very broad fettuccine). Pappardelle derives from the word "pappare" which means "to gobble up." The pappardelle I consumed was egg based and made by Rustichella.
The Scordo Pasta Challenge putters along even in the oppressive East coast heat - long live the king of starches.


(photo: the boil; 6-7 minutes)

(photo: tossed in olive oil, parsley, and garlic)

(photo: the pasta obsession is passed on to the next generation)

Chitarra is similar to spaghetti, but with squared edges. It was once cut on guitar strings, hence its unique name. Here's a great link to a "guitar pasta maker"

(photo: Chitarra with pesto and a glass of Pinot Noir from Chile <light years ahead of any under $20 Pinot from Oregon or California>)
I used Rustichella Chitarra and prepared a pesto sauce to accompany the pasta. The squared edges on the long pasta did a great job of adhering to the wonderfully thick and aromatic pesto sauce (see my recipe via Genoa-born neighbor Amelia). The pesto sauce recipe has an interesting ingredient, so be sure to click through!

My pasta intake is increasing in proportion to my current home improvement projects; good for getting weekend project completed but not for the author's waistline. Long live the Scordo Pasta Challenge.

For many Italians, soup equals pasta (that is to say, a primo serving of soup in many Italian households includes some sort of pasta mixed in with Lentil, Peas, Chickpeas, etc.). Adding a small amount of pasta to a soup increases the hardiness of any given soup dish and can also elevate soup to a meal in and of itself.
If you haven't noticed I've been consuming a ton of pasta lately given the Scordo Pasta Challenge. I've had everything from bucatani with olive oil and parsley to tripoloni with tomato sauce. However, I've also been consuming another starch with equivalent joy, namely the almighty arancini or rice ball (click here for my recipe)! And while my love and devotion for pasta will continue given the aformentioend challenge I wanted to also pay homage to the rice ball.

(photo: my mother, her sisters, and my grandmother on the family farm just outside of Pellegrina in Calabria <probably some time in the 1960s>)
With some spectacular weather here on the East Coast my mind turned to the outdoors the last week or so, hence the long stretch without a post (my apologies).
I consumed the Cencioni as a "primo" with tomato sauce, followed by some roasted chicken with sauteed escarole. The meal was extra special because it was accompanied by some newly bottled homemade wine (courtesy of Tommaso Sr.).



When it comes to living life, I'm a sucker for both luxurious and practical things. I'm equally comfortable driving a Honda or a Mercedes-Benz or living amongst nose-in-the-air snobs or dyed in the wool blue collar types. I lean towards the practical and modest side of living, but who doesn't like nice, luxurious, things on occasion.


Add the pasta to your sauté pan with the escarole mixture. Mix well and add in a bit of the pasta water (just enough to loosen up the sauce). Finally, add a bit of shredded Provola and mix well. Plate the pasta and add a bit more provola and a drizzle of olive oil. Enjoy during lunch with a glass of Ciro Rosato from Calabria.


(photo: With the Imperia in the background, tiny mounds of Fettucine lay to dry)
My wife's family celebrates Palm Sunday via a never ending feast of homemade Fettucine (made via the standard Imperia pasta machine). The homemade fettucine are delicate and wonderfully light ("light" is something you hear lots of people say about homemade pasta, I agree but I'm not sure it's wholly accurate). My wife's mother serves the Fettucine with a simple tomato sauce and toasted breadcrumbs (grated Roman cheese is present as well).
(photo: Lots of tomato sauce, breadcrumbs, and grated Romano cheese)
Fettucine is a classic pasta shape and known throghout the world. Fettucine is a flat thick noodle and is sometimes referred to as tagliatelle in other parts of Italy. The Scordo Pasta Challenge continues on...
(photo: T. and E. in awe of the pasta traffic jam)
Last Thursday I consumed Bucatini (from Colavita; decent pasta given price) with Alio and Olio. The Scordo Pasta Challenge lives on; six shapes down and a little under 300 shapes to go!


(photo: diced up and waiting for the pan!)
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Cannelloni have a special place in my heart as I've always consumed them on special days (such as a holiday or a birthday). My favorite Cannelloni are prepared in a simple manner, that is, with fresh ricotta, parsley, and tomato sauce. Cannelloni are typically boiled and then stuffed with ricotta and thereafter they are baked in the oven with tomato sauce.

Scordo Pasta Challenge: #94 Paccheri with Olive Oil, Parmigiano Reggiano, and Course Ground Pepper
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Paccheri is one of those shapes I wasn't aware of until I stumbled across it in the Rustichella catalog. Paccheri is a super variant of rigatoni (without the ridges) and best prepared with chunky sauces (such as a ragu with rabbit, for example).

(3/22: Update - Contest is closed and the winner is Joe. D., congratulations! And thanks to everyone for leaving a comment)
Recently, I had the good fortune to sample some new extra virgin olive oils from Italy, including Titone (from the Trapanesi Valley in Sicilia), Frescobaldi Laudemio (from Firenze in Tuscana), Vittorio Cassini (from Liguria), and Frantoio Di Sommaia (from Calenzano in Tuscana), all imported by Manicaretti.
Frescobaldi Laudemio Extra Virgin Olive Oil has won a ton of awards, including #1 Tuscan oil in 1997 by Wine Spectator and "Best of Olive Oil" at the 2001 Summer Fancy Food Show in New York. The consortium that produces Laudemio has been around since the early 1990's and the filtered oil has nice notes, again, of pepper and lemon zest. I like Laudemio drizzed over a hot bean soup or over roasted broccoli and red pepper flakes.


(photo: Tripolini close up)

With high winds and rainy weather I become like a house cat looking for comfort and, as you've probably guessed it, my mind turns to the ultimate comfort food: pasta!
The pasta brand is Paone.
(photo: close up of Trenne before mixing with sauce or condiment).
Here we go, the first pasta dish consumed for the Scordo Pasta Challenge or Vincenzo Eats His Way Through Every Pasta Shape Known to Man!

(photo: after mixing the sauce with the Trenne)




































