Recently in Italy Category

(photo: an ancient olive tree on the family olive orchard)

Driving on the A3 autostrada from the Reggio Calabria airport to the village of Pellegrina (a tiny Comune di Bagnara Calabra) my mood changes instantly.  I'm greeted by a penetrating sun, flowing sea breezes, and intoxicating smells of earth.  The greeting has come courtesy of Calabria, the terra of my parents and the very foundation of my soul.   
 
(photo: Sangaspano extra virgin olive oil from Messina, Sicilia)

On the morning of December 28th, 1908 a massive earthquake and associated tsunami hit the western province of Calabria and moved across the Stretto di Messina into Sicilia destroying city after city (including Reggio Calabria and Messina).  In Messina alone 60,000 people were killed and in Calabria our family lost many people, including small children.  In total, over 100,000 people were killed in 1908 making it the deadliest earthquake in European history.    

Prior to the earthquake, Messina was home to ancient architecture and a vibrant port.   And although the city did re-build, it was bombed extensively in 1943 by the Allies killing thousounds of Italians.  However not all of the goings-on within the Province of Messina are gloomy.  For example, the olive oil producer Sangaspano is located in the hills of Valle del Mela overlooking the Gulf of Milazzo and the islands of Stromboli and Panarea.  The land and region is beautiful and the extra virgin olive oils coming out of Sicilia rival some of the best Tuscan oils.
 
(photo: packaging is first rate, if not a little wasteful) 

We've covered the pasta shape tagliatelle here on Scordo.com in the past (via the Scordo Pasta Challenge) but we decided to review the pasta shape one more time given the quality of Caponi Pontedera tagliatelle and the fact that it's an egg based pasta (pasta all'uovo).  

Pastificio Caponi is a Tuscan pasta factory (located in Pontedera) headed by two brothers, Andrea e Alessandro Tagliagambe.  Caponi produces dried egg pasta and utilizes Canadian durum wheat flour because they believe the wheat has a high intake of protein.  Caponi's pasta utilizes fresh eggs and and is cut by hand by a single craftsmen/women.  The drying process at Caponi takes an amazing 70-80 hours at room temperature.
(photo: beaches in Scilla, with its castle overlooking the Sicilian coas, Piero Morello)

By now you know my connection to the region of Calabria in southern Italy and my familiar, immigrant, story. You know, for example, my parents immigrated to the U.S. from a tiny hilltop village in southwest Calabria called Pellegrina in the 1970's and that I've been influenced greatly by the traditions found in the region.  However, I've never told our loyal Scordo.com audience what I specifically love about Calabria, so here are the five things I love about Calabria and, in turn, the Italian life (and yes there are negative aspects about the Province but I'll save those observations for another post):

(photo: typical Christmas Eve dinner table here in the US)

Christmas is just around the corner and if you're celebrating an "Italian Christmas" then you've most likely heard of the Feast of the Seven Fishes.  The traditional Christmas Eve dinner is steeped in folk tradition and as Maria Laurino writing for the NY Times has said, the ritual varies from region to region, including the number and type of fish served.

Tucked neatly in the upper left hand corner of the above photo is the Sfalassa Bridge in Bagnara Calabra, Calabria.  The Sfalassa Bridge crosses both the Lucanian and Calabrian Apennines mountain range in southern Italy and is part of the the Autostrada Napoli-Reggio Calabria or A3 highway.


With dozens of tunnels and towering bridges, it is a showcase of Italian engineering. The last few miles of the motorway traverse some of the most spectacular coastal terrain in all of Italy. Crossing the deepest of these ravines is the Sfalassà gorge bridge, the highest and longest span frame bridge in the world. Rising 820 feet (250 mtrs) above the canyon floor, the bridge was the 3rd highest in the world upon its opening in 1974. The main span measures 1,181 feet (360 mtrs) between the pins of the two 500 foot (152 mtr) long angled box beam struts.

A frame bridge combines elements of an arch bridge and a beam bridge. In an arch bridge, the support follows a continuous curve from one foundation to another. In a frame bridge, the road deck is supported by two inclined piers that are straight. These two struts usually support 3 horizontal beam spans that carry the roadway on top.

To construct Sfalassà, the two struts were built vertically like a 50 story skyscraper and then lowered out over either side of the gorge to an angle of approximately 50 degrees. Held back by a large temporary truss and several cable stays, the struts finally supported the roadway after the central span was completed. The design is credited to Silvano Zorzi, Lucio Lonardo and Sabatino Procaccia.

I remember crossing the bridge as both a child and an adult during our vacations in Calabria and the bridge has always impressed me, especially looking up from the Violet Coast / Mare Tirreno or Tyrrhenian Sea.  

Also located in Calabria is the Viadotto Italia in Laino Borgo.  The Viadotto is also part of the same A3 highway system.  If you love Italy and beautiful drives (including mountain passes, driving in tunnels, spectacular ocean views, etc.), then head to Calabria and rent a small sports car in early summer and have at it!

(photo: Sfalassa Bridge courtesy of Francesco Romeo.)


(photo: the Viadotto Italia, courtesy of HighestBridges.com)
(photo: my grandmother, great aunts, and mother <she's being held by my great aunt on the left side of the photo> and relatives on the family farm during the wheat harvest)

What is Cucina Povera?

A friend recently asked me to explain the concept of cucina povera and here's the working definition I came up with :

a style of cooking best represented, in the past, by the lower class (read: peasants) of a given society.  Peasant cooking aims to utilize whatever is found in the kitchen, household, farm, etc. to prepare meals.  The concept of cucina povera (literally meaning poor kitchen) can be found in every society and is really about making great food with simple, yet high quality, and available ingredients (including every part of the animal such as cow intestine, pig ears, goat head, etc.). 

Both my family in the United States and Italy have made and continue to make meals in the fashion of cucina povera.  That is to say, utilizing both what is contained in the kitchen or pantry and what isn't too costly at the market in order to prepare meals.  In Italy, the kitchen of the poor arouse out of post War conditions and the generally depressed state of southern Italian life where food choices were limited (regardless of War).

Examples

Some of my favorite examples of cooking in the style of cucina povera include:


How to Cook in the Style of Cucina Povera 

Ask any Italian cook if they aim to prepare foods in the style of cucina povera and you'll get a laugh, especially from an older person who lived through post War Italy.  Both my grandmothers, for example, wouldn't acknowledge the cucina povera style rather they'd argue that it was simply the food they had access to and prepared (we've only managed to romanticize the style of cooking here in the United States with our countless food choices). 

So, my advice to you if you're looking to cook in the style of, say, the Tuscan peasant or the Calabrian laborer is to have a simple Italian pantry (see my list of the top 12 Italian pantry ingredients) that is well stocked and also to try and lead a more simple existence (see the 10 things my Italian parents taught me about money); that is to say, cutting out excess and living the Italian way (in the kitchen and elsewhere).

(photo: by Piero Morello.  Children in Calabrian classroom.)

One of the great appeals of living in a country like Italy is that daily life is truly enjoyed.  That is to say, a stroll by the sea, a day hunting with friends, or a simple prank in a classroom is seen as a form of fulfillment or happiness.

The following photos were all taken by a photographer named Piero Morello who lives in Reggio Calabria (near my parent's hometown of Pellegrina).  Piero shoots mostly in black and white and captures that wonderful simplicity and beauty that is the simple art of living in Calabria, like many areas of Italy.

Enjoy the photos:


(photo: by Piero Morello.  Hunter and dog)


(photo: by Piero Morello.  Grapes on vine)


(photo: by Piero Morello.  Hunter and dog)


(photo: by Piero Morello.  Hunters walking.)


(photo: by Piero Morello.  Hunter.)


(photo: by Piero Morello.  Sea near Bagnara Calabra.)
(photo: the beautiful, 1 liter, tin housing Frankies Sicilian olive oil and a salad of tomatoes, red onion, and basil)
  
Amongst southern Italians there's a deep rivalry between Calabrians and Sicilians.  If you travel to Calabria's old capital Reggio Calabria, you'll see many Sicilian influences from the regional dialect to arancini and the breakfast delicacy brioce (a type of sweet bread that is served with a scoop of ice cream).  Both regions have unyielding loyalty to their traditions and way of life and it's not entirely clear what food or cultural item or tradition originated in which region (at least that's what the locals will tell you).  

There is, of course, a rich tradition of producing olive oil in Southern Italy (including my mother's side of the family in Calabria).  I remember tasting my first cold pressed extra virgin olive oil on Nonno Latella's farm as a 10 year old and thinking this is quite possibly some of the nastiest liquid on the planet.  Jump forward about 20 years and I'd probably label Nonno's olive oil as some of the finest unfiltered oil I've tasted (having matured later in life as a proper "foodie", as much as I hate to use the phrase).  Nonno's olive orchard was small by Italian standards and he only made enough for the immediate family (and, in especially good years, sell a few bottles to the locals).  See my general guide to olive olive here and some photos of Nonno's orchards here (including a review of other top olive oils).  




My mother still talks about smothering freshly made, and still hot, bread with Nonno's extra virgin olive oil as do a few Sicilian aunts (with similar bread and oil from their small villages on the Island adjacent to Calabria).  Recently, I had the pleasure of tasting an olive oil made from organically grown olives in Trapani, Sicily (situated on the western coast of the Island, near Palermo).  Produced under the Frankies 45 brand name (by the same family operating two Italian American restaurants in Brooklyn and Manhattan), the oil is made from first cold pressed green Nocarella del Belice olives and has a good bright and spicy flavor profile.  The oil has very good fruit and a minimal spicy aftertaste, making it a good introductory oil and also well suited for general use (in salads, as a base for any number of pasta sauces, and sautéing vegetables and meats). Frankies 457 Extra Virgin Olive Oil is mono-varietal, (or single varietal), certified organic, and unfiltered (it's style of production is DOP certified).  The oil comes in a 1 liter, uniquely designed bottle and at $32.00 it's a good bargain. 

You can find the oil at the excellent online shop Olio2go.com
(photo: a family shot during World Cup 2006, a far better showing for the Azzurri!) 

The following post is a long time in the making.  For a few months now I've been wanting to share a list of some of the top, Italian-themed, sites and blogs on the web.

In turn, here's my, unofficial, alphabetically inspired, and unscientific list of top Italy sites (written in English).  If you're a dear, dear friend and I've failed to include you please send me a note.  I also encourage everyone to follow the folks below on Facebook and Twitter, if you want to be in the know on all things Italian.

1. Bleeding Espresso
An ex-pat, and former attorney, living in Calabria Michelle shares her experience about Calabrian culture, food, etc.

2. Blog From Italy
Alex runs this "general" news from Italy blog, including music, travel, and "good Italian things"

3. Calabria From Scratch
Authentic recipes from Calabria via an engineer turned cookbook author.



6. Ciao Amalfi
Laura is an American writer who now lives and writes exclusively about the Amalfi Coast.

7. Frutto Della Passione
Joanne's blog is all about Italian food.

8. Italofile
Melanie has a focus on travel and Italy.


10. Melange
Robin has some great food photos, as well wonderful content on traveling to Italy and France.

11. My Bella Vita
Cheryl focuses on life and travel in Southern Italy (from a woman originally from the American south!)

12. Ms. Adventures in Italy
Run by Sarah who has lived all over Italy.


14. Why Go ITaly
Travelling to Italy, then visit Jessica's comprehensive site.

15. Zoomata
Nicole writes about general Italian goings-on.
tomatoesplum
(photos: Jersey plum tomatoes washed and ready to be cut)

August is prime season for canning tomatoes and this year's Jersey plum tomatoes are outstanding!  The Scordo family purchased about five bushels of locally grown plum tomatoes and canned only passato (passato is essentially pureed tomato, in the past we canned a combination of passato and whole tomatoes).  As the site e-rcps.com points out:

Tomatoes are usually preserved in three different forms, each of which has its particular uses. First there are the ordinary tinned or bottled whole tomatoes, 1. pomodori pelati, which contain a high percentage of liquid and are best used for dishes that require a tomato base but need a long cooking time. Secondly there is the puree, 2. passato di pomodoro, which is a much thicker reduction of tomatoes, sometimes flavoured with celery, onion, carrot and basil, then called pomaruola or conserva. This is ideal for sauces which need a rich body of tomato. Thirdly there is the tomato concentrate, 3. concentrato di pomodoro, which is the tomato reduced to a very strong paste and flavour and is useful for colour and flavour in a dish where bulk tomato is not required. 

The advantage to canning passato is that when it comes time to make tomato sauce for dinner or lunch, there is no need to food mill whole tomatoes!

You can read my detailed article on how to can tomatoes here.   Enjoy the photos from our 2010 tomato canning extravaganza:

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(photos: cutting the plum tomatoes into sections and removing some of the seeds)

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(photos: cooking cut tomatoes in large aluminum pots)   

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(photo: stirring the tomatoes)


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(photo: almost ready for the large food mill)

 
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(photo: Italian-made food mill being set up)
 

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(photo: food mill set up)
 
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(photo: tomatoes being put through the food mill for passato)

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(photo: pure tomato passato!)

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(photo: the food mill does a great job of removing the skins from the tomato, tomato skins are the enemy of a good tomato sauce)
  
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(photo: preparing sterile mason jars with basil)
 
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(photos: fresh garden basil)
 
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(photo: moving passato into mason jars)
  
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(photo: the tomato canning process is intense and very hands on, but the end result is terrific)
 
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(photo: future canning expert examining the end result" tomato bliss in a Mason jar!)

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(photo: strainers help wash whole tomatoes)
  
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(photos: bushel crates, five in total for the Scordo family)
eggpasta

Think of Pappardelle as fettuccine (see our guide to dry pasta) on steroids (basically very broad fettuccine).  Pappardelle derives from the word "pappare" which means "to gobble up."  The pappardelle I consumed was egg based and made by Rustichella.  

I always associate Pappardelle with meat sauces, specifically a ragu made out of rabbit (it was a favorite of mine growing up in NJ).  Pappardelle also pairs well with a sauce made out of wild boar.  Like many Italian food types, there is a festival in Italy honoring pappardelle (yes, food is honored in Italy!); Sagra delle Pappardelle al cinghiale (Pappardelle with wild boar festival) is held every August in the city of Gemmano in the Emilia-Romagna Region. 

The Scordo Pasta Challenge putters along even in the oppressive East coast heat - long live the king of starches.   
 
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(photo: the main ingredients outside the pasta)

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(photo: the boil; 6-7 minutes)

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(photo: tossed in olive oil, parsley, and garlic)

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(photo: the pasta obsession is passed on to the next generation)
pestobowl
(photo: completed pesto sauce in a bowl made from the famous ceramic factories in Bagnara Calabra)

Chitarra is similar to spaghetti, but with squared edges. It was once cut on guitar strings, hence its unique name.  Here's a great link to a "guitar pasta maker"

pestbowl_close
(photo: Chitarra with pesto and a glass of Pinot Noir from Chile <light years ahead of any under $20 Pinot from Oregon or California>)

I used Rustichella Chitarra and prepared a pesto sauce to accompany the pasta.  The squared edges on the long pasta did a great job of adhering to the wonderfully thick and aromatic pesto sauce (see my recipe via Genoa-born neighbor Amelia).  The pesto sauce recipe has an interesting ingredient, so be sure to click through!

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(photo: pesto via machine.  proper pesto is made from via mortar and pestle but I have soar arm from my poor, tennis, serving technique ) 

pestocloseup
(photo: close up of the pesto)


salad
(photo: salad with Romaine, dandelion greens, tomatoes, Persian cucumber, red onion, Greek feta with a mustard dressing)

My pasta intake is increasing in proportion to my current home improvement projects; good for getting weekend project completed but not for the author's waistline.  Long live the Scordo Pasta Challenge.  
ceppo2

Pasta al Ceppo is literally translated as pasta on a stick and knitting needles were once used to shape the pasta.  The pasta has a nice texture and works well with hearty sauces.  

The Scordo Pasta Challenge continues!

pastacepp
(photo: homemade ricotta in a basket)

My first memory of ricotta wasn't pleasant.  I remember thinking that the cheese was tasteless and had a consistency of something akin to white mud rather than some wonderful food concoction.  Fast forward about 20 years and I'm in love with ricotta and value its subtle flavor profile and creamy texture (not to mention it's versatility).  Note to parents: introduce as many foods to your young kids as possible!  

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For many Italians, soup equals pasta (that is to say, a primo serving of soup in many Italian households includes some sort of pasta mixed in with Lentil, Peas, Chickpeas, etc.).  Adding a small amount of pasta to a soup increases the hardiness of any given soup dish and can also elevate soup to a meal in and of itself.

For the last installment of the Scordo Pasta Challenge I made a simple chickpea soup with onions, brocolli, fresh parsley, dried oregano, salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes.  I also boiled a small amount of Ditalini (pasta shaped like a small tube) and added it to the soup.  My dish also included plenty of grated Grana Padano.
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If you haven't noticed I've been consuming a ton of pasta lately given the Scordo Pasta Challenge.  I've had everything from bucatani with olive oil and parsley to tripoloni with tomato sauce.   However, I've also been consuming another starch with equivalent joy, namely the almighty arancini or rice ball (click here for my recipe)!  And while my love and devotion for pasta will continue given the aformentioend challenge I wanted to also pay homage to the rice ball.  

So, the executive staff behind Scordo.com (there are actually no executives or staff at Scordo.com) have decided to designate May 1st as global Arancini Day.  The designation is a first (according to a few informal web searches) and I'm asking that loyal Scordo.com readers fry up their  versions of Arancini on May 1st, 2010 and send in photos of their golden and crisp rice masterpieces.  Thereafter, I'll post any photo and recipe here and we can continue the tradition every year!  The logic behind Arancini Day is that rice balls require a little bit of time to prepare and carefully fry (I don't make them more than 2x per year, for example) so why not designate a single day throughout the year to fry up a patch and share on the web!

Please share this post on Twitter and Facebook and via eMail with friends and family!  Send all photos (and/or recipes) to blog at scordo dot com.  And rice balls aren't just an Italian thing, for example there's the equivalent of a Filipino rice ball that is also deep fried!
oldcalab2
(photo: my mother, her sisters, and my grandmother on the family farm just outside of Pellegrina in Calabria <probably some time in the 1960s>)

Both of my parents were born in Southern Italy where unemployment is high and quality of life is superb. My mother, A., made it to the 7th grade and my father, T., recieved the equivalent of a technical high school diploma. Both of my parents immigrated to the US in 1975 and are currently debt free, own their own two-family home, and have plenty of cash in savings. They are, in many ways, leading the American dream - by not adopting the principles of American consumerism.

The lessons below may be be described as "old school" and overly simplistic, but the hard truth is that each tip works!  And, moreover, are used frequently by recent immigrants to the United States (and are often forgotten by the 2nd or 3rd generation):

Tip 1: "Save like you have no job and 6 mouths to feed."

For my parents, saving was akin to a religion. They didn't save 10 or 20 percent of their paycheck; rather they saved close to half of their take home pay. I suspect the urge to save is an instinctual feeling for many recent immigrants who arrive in a new country with no job and no home. The ability to save such a large percentage of what they made was dependent on controlling how much they spent each week. If you live well below your means you can save a large percentage of your weekly income.

Tip 2: "Look for non-material ways to feel rich."

My parents have never owned a fancy car or purchased luxury clothes or items. My parents hardly dine out or buy pre-cooked or packaged food. Rather, A. and T. find true fulfillment in family, great food, wine, and visiting the country where they were born. My parents appreciate nice, material things, but they are not defined or fulfilled via acquiring the aforementioned things.

Tip  3: "Use your network for help."

This means finding an uncle who does plumbing and a cousin who is a paralegal at a law firm. My parent's family network has helped me, personally, with home improvement, legal advice, emergency situations (taking care of babies or a ride to the hospital), etc. If I had to pay a stranger every time I needed something done in my life, I would not only be broke, but I would lack real friends and family. The real life lesson here is to nurture family relationships and not rush to pay someone to do something for you. (There are other ways to reward people without a large check).

Tip  4: "What's a credit card?"

If you look at my dad's wallet on a typical day it would resemble George Costanza's wallet from Seinfeld - full of notes and papers and a good amount of cash. My father pays for everything in cash, and if he doesn't have the cash, he will either not purchase the item or go to the bank and take out money. My parents have had very little credit card activity over the last 30 years, and I think it's a key component to their practical lifestyle - (that is to say, you can't buy stuff if you don't have the cash!).

Tip 5: "You can't count on your job - always have other sources of income."

My parents bought a two family home shortly after arriving in the US. The logic behind purchasing a two family home centered on having a monthly reoccurring revenue stream outside of a normal job. Sure, they would have liked a single family home with a larger yard and without constant maintenance in their rental unit, but they like the cash more! Do you have cash coming in every month outside of your normal job? If not, you may not be as financially secure as you think you are!


Tip  6: "Do it yourself."

My parents are both incredibly crafty. My dad performs his own car repairs, produces homemade wine, renovates his own home (including plumbing and electrical), cuts his own grass, and more. My mother makes all of her own food, cans tomatoes and vegetables, sews, cleans, and grows and tends a garden, among many other things. My parents have often told me that if the world were to fall into disrepair they would have no problem living their life. (They are independent and self sufficient).

Tip  7: "Trust your family, be wary of everyone else."

This may sound like a line out of the Godfather, but the fact that American society is based on a capitalist operating principle will motivate everyone from the shop owner to the general contractor to make as much money as possible from you, and there are no safety nets when it comes to preserving the wealth you've worked hard to acquire. This life lesson is akin to former Intel CEO Andy Groove's line: "Only the Paranoid Survive."

Tip 8: "You are not defined by your job or fame."

A job or career usually defines most adults in Anglo-Saxon cultures. Ask any typical American about their life, and the narrative usually centers on their work or job. If you ask the typical person from Southern Italy about their life, they'll tell you stories about their family, homeland, last name, daughters, sons, food they grow, or wine they make. (I swear this isn't connected to the high unemployment rate.) My parents are defined by who they are and not the job they do for someone else or the amount of money in their paycheck each week. This is a powerful principle to live by, and once you truly embrace it, the byproduct can be quite liberating.

Tip  9: "Think big picture."

Do you ever become overwhelmed by a problem you can't, for the life of you, see past the immediate future? Maybe you're worried about your job or if little Timmy will get accepted to Harvard in a few years, for example? These are illustrations of "small picture" thinking, and it can handicap many individuals from getting through tough moments in their life. Like many immigrants, my parents had to somehow block out the immediacy of not having much when they arrived in the US, in order think long term about the type of life they would someday lead.

Tip  10: "Ignore your neighbors."

I'm convinced that many individuals lead their life according to the goings-on of their neighbors. For example, if Doris next door leases a shiny new German sedan, you may be compelled to question the worth or legitimacy of your 10-year-old Ford sitting in the driveway. If, by the miracle of home refinancing, Doris adds another 800 square feet to her over-leveraged center hall colonial, you may all of sudden feel cramped in your tiny Cape-Cod-style home. What is my parents' opinion of neighborhood goings-on? Make friends, and be a good neighbor, but don't follow the neighbor into debt and materialism.
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With some spectacular weather here on the East Coast my mind turned to the outdoors the last week or so, hence the long stretch without a post (my apologies).  

My latest pasta conquest centered on the Cencioni, a little known pasta from the Basilicata region of Italy.  Cencioni, or translated as "little rag", is perfect for loose sauces.   Cencioni has great texture and could work well as a substitute for baked ziti.  The pasta is a bit difficult to cook as the outer edges cook before the dense center, 

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I consumed the Cencioni as a "primo" with tomato sauce, followed by some roasted chicken with sauteed escarole.  The meal was extra special because it was accompanied by some newly bottled homemade wine (courtesy of Tommaso Sr.).   
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(photo: lots of mozzarella, aborio rice, a bit of tomato sauce, and a few bits of beef)   

Sometimes food photos are better than the actual food item.  I can wholeheartedly say, however, that when it comes to rice balls or Arancini the photos below look as good as they actually taste.  

You can find my recipe for Arancini here.  Enjoy a few photos of a recent rice ball extravaganza held in New Jersey and leave a comment on how you make rice balls!

Enjoy a hot rice ball with a cold Sam Adams Lager or Brooklyn Lager!

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beer2
(photo: two of my favorite US beers)
escapasta
(photo: final product with a bit of extra provola and olive oil)

When it comes to living life, I'm a sucker for both luxurious and practical things.  I'm equally comfortable driving a Honda or a Mercedes-Benz or living amongst nose-in-the-air snobs or dyed in the wool blue collar types.  I lean towards the practical and modest side of living, but who doesn't like nice, luxurious, things on occasion.  

When selecting vegetables at the market I'm drawn to fancy Sicilian eggplant or in season fava beans (think of these vegetables as the equivalent of fancy German vehicles), but when it comes to the ultimate practical (or working class) vegetable it's Escarole that gets me excited (think of Escarole as the Honda Accord of greens).   

Escarole is a workhorse vegetable and is incredibly easy to prepare and almost impossible to overcook.  Escarole goes well with beans and a hearty broth or as an alternative to sautéed spinach.  Recently, I've been experimenting with escarole and pasta combinations (given, you guessed it, the Scordo Pasta Challenge). In turn, I've come up my definitive escarole and pasta dish: Sauteed escarole with garlic, onion, potato, red pepper flakes, and imported Italian provola.

Here are the ingredients:

- ¾ of a head of escarole (small to medium size head)
- 4 large cloves of garlic
- ¼ of a potato, thinly sliced.
- ½ a large onion (red or white)
- 1 teaspoon of red pepper flakes
- ½ cup of pasta water
- ¼ pound of linguine 
- 3-4 teaspoons of extra virgin olive oil
- 1 cup of grated imported provola (by the best you can afford and grate it like you would for a pizza <shredded>)

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(photo: combined ingredients minus the pasta and provola)  

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(photo: shredded imported provola, which is a great melting cheese)

In a sauté pan, add 2 teaspoon of olive oil and heat.  Next, add your sliced garlic, onion, and potato.  Sautee the three ingredient for 5-10 minutes or until soft (add salt and pepper).  Next, add the red pepper flakes and stir for 2-3 minutes.  Add you're your bite size pieces of escarole and sauté until the liquid begins to leave the escarole (for about 5 minutes).  Season the mixture again with salt and pepper.  When your pasta is cooked drain it and save some of the pasta water.  


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(photo: always add pasta to the pot containing the sauce)

Add the pasta to your sauté pan with the escarole mixture.  Mix well and add in a bit of the pasta water (just enough to loosen up the sauce).  Finally, add a bit of shredded Provola and mix well.  Plate the pasta and add a bit more provola and a drizzle of olive oil.  Enjoy during lunch with a glass of Ciro Rosato from Calabria.

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(photo: end product ready to eat)
saladleftover

Next to incorporating the right leftovers into a great sandwich, putting together a "leftover salad" is one of my favorite food shortcuts; that is to say, having a great meal full of flavor without a big undertaking.  After all, what's the point of cooking great food if you're chained to your Wolf stove for half the day (this is why I'm not a fan of formal French cooking, sorry all you trained chef's out there).  

Recently, I put together the following salad for a weekday lunch (including a fresh baguette and a few glasses of Cotes de Rhone).

Here are the ingredients:

- 2 large organic romaine hearts
- 1 bunch of fresh parsley
- 3 large scallions 
- 5-6 artichoke hearts (I used hearts that were coated in breadcrumbs and baked with lots of olive oil)

You'll want to cut the scallions, sun dried tomatoes, and romaine lettuce into, roughly, the same shape.  You can tear the leaves off of the parsley being careful not to include too much of the stem.  


That's it, enjoy the salad with some good bread and a bottle of Cotes de Rhone.  Include some cheese if you'd like.  I finished the meal with an orange and ripe pear, followed by a small piece of dark chocolate.  You can also treat yourself to a post dinner Amari, if you'd like.

pastafett

(photo: With the Imperia in the background, tiny mounds of Fettucine lay to dry)

My wife's family celebrates Palm Sunday via a never ending feast of homemade Fettucine (made via the standard Imperia pasta machine).  The homemade fettucine are delicate and wonderfully light ("light" is something you hear lots of people say about homemade pasta, I agree but I'm not sure it's wholly accurate).  My wife's mother serves the Fettucine with a simple tomato sauce and toasted breadcrumbs (grated Roman cheese is present as well). 

IMG_5846

(photo: Lots of tomato sauce, breadcrumbs, and grated Romano cheese)

Fettucine is a classic pasta shape and known throghout the world.  Fettucine is a flat thick noodle and is sometimes referred to as tagliatelle in other parts of Italy.  The Scordo Pasta Challenge continues on... 

pastfetttande

(photo: T. and E. in awe of the pasta traffic jam)

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Last Thursday I consumed Bucatini (from Colavita; decent pasta given price) with Alio and Olio.  The Scordo Pasta Challenge lives on; six shapes down and a little under 300 shapes to go!

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sausage
(photo: diced up and waiting for the pan!)

UPDATE: 4/2/10 Annelle Williams is the winner!  Contest is now closed!

I've written on virtues of salumi, but to my surprise I haven't waxed philosophically on sausage - that other ideal representation of the almighty pig.

Italian Sausage, as it's referenced in the States, is often grilled, used in stuffings, soups and pasta.  I've prepared sausage with soft polenta during harsh winters, crumbled it for use in afternoon frittatas, and grilled a few links on the barbecue for use as a sandwich with some good pane Pugliese .  

Happy Pigs

Mass produced sausage (pork in general) will turn away even the most dyed in the wool pig lovers, but when sausage is done right, with an ideal combination of salt, spices, natural casing and, of course, well raised pigs, it's an incredible food product.  Pork from the Berkshire region of New England is very good (given the manner in which the pigs are raised and treated) as are other smaller producers along the east coast.  The Italians take their pork seriously and much of it is still produced on small, local, farms where the pigs eat and live like kings (on Nonno Latella's farm in Calabria his pigs often held special status, receiving extra special attention when it came to food and, no pun intended, creature comforts>).

I often stay away from supermarket sausage simply because it tastes bad, however I've come across product from Nieman Ranch which I thought was quite good but a bit expensive.   I think the high cost is directly correlated to the high standards on the farms producing pork for Nieman Ranch brand (click here to read the standards documentation for their pigs are raised ).  

Creminelli, in addition to producing salumi, also produces seven varieties of pork sausage.  I had the pleasure of tasting three of their varieties (pesto, piccante, and porcini) and like the sweet Italian sausage from Niman Ranch, the end product had a higher fat content (in a good way), top quality spices, natural casing, and, overall, oozed with real pork flavor.  Piccante was my favorite variety and it had just the right amount of spice (that is to say, I could taste both the Pepperoncini and pork).  Creminelli uses pork from animals that have a diet of white grains and whey with no antibiotics or other synthetic feeds. 

Gourmet Sausage Giveaway

Given my love of pork and closely associated belief in raising animals in the correct manner before they reach out tables, I'm offering a sausage giveaway in partnership with Creminelli including 1 pound each of piccante, pesto, and porcini Creminelli sausage).  As usual you can find the contest rules below and I hope you take a minute to enter so that we can all move away from eating supermarket sausage! 

- 1. leave a comment under this post on your favorite sausage recipe (doesn't need to be a fancy or an authentic Italian recipe, just how you like to eat sausage), 2. "share" the Scordo.com on Facebook here fan page on your profile (you can do this by going to any article on the Scordo Facebook fan page and clicking share at the bottom of the entry) and 3., sign up for the Creminelli Facebook Fan Page.  

- You can also sign up for the Scordo.com newsletter and follow us on Twitter if you'd like, but it's not a requirement).
 
- Only one entry per person please and the winner must be US based (sorry to all my Italian fans!).

- The contest is open until 12 midnight on 4/1 and a single random user will be picked via Random.org.  The winner will be announced immediately on Twitter (so please follow me) and on Scordo.com by 5PM on Friday, 4/2.

- Please use a valid email address when leaving a comment so I can contact you just in case you're the lucky winner (I'll need your shipping address). 

- Creminelli will send out the sausage to a single contest winner during the week of 4/5.

IMG_0088
(photo: Cannelloni ready to eat!   Because the pasta is baked after boiling, the tomato sauce tends to thicken up a bit).

Cannelloni have a special place in my heart as I've always consumed them on special days (such as a holiday or a birthday).  My favorite Cannelloni are prepared in a simple manner, that is, with fresh ricotta, parsley, and tomato sauce.  Cannelloni are typically boiled and then stuffed with ricotta and thereafter they are baked in the oven with tomato sauce.  

IMG_0087
(photo: Cannelloni up close in the tray)

I enjoyed the above pasta with a simple glass of Burgundy.

IMG_0085
(photo: Cannelloni in the baking tray)

How do you prepare Cannelloni and do you refer to them as Manicotti?  What's the difference?
pasta

Paccheri is one of those shapes I wasn't aware of until I stumbled across it in the Rustichella catalog.  Paccheri is a super variant of rigatoni (without the ridges) and best prepared with chunky sauces (such as a ragu with rabbit, for example). 

However, I cooked up a batch of Paccheri and simply added very good extra virgin olive oil, freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana Padano, and lots of coursley ground black pepper for my Scordo Pasta Challenge this past Thursday. If I had fresh ricotta (recipe to come!) in the house then I would have included a bit of it as well.  

I enjoyed the dish with a glass of Aglianico from Campania or Basilicata.  Now go and enjoy the weather if you live on the East Coast!
orchards2
(photo: Latella family olive orchard outside of Pellegrina, Italy)

(3/22: Update - Contest is closed and the winner is Joe. D., congratulations!  And thanks to everyone for leaving a comment) 
Images have always played a large role in my life.  I still have vivid images in my mind of childhood events like playing hide and seek at dusk on my New Jersey block or the fierce eyes and large breasts of my sixth grade teacher Mrs. Salzarulo.  I shut my eyes and mental pictures bring me back 5, 10, even 20 years ago to seminal and not so important events in my life.  I don't consider conjuring vivid imagery a particularly impressive ability, just a function of how my brain works.    Some images are romanticized, and I'm sure not wholly accurate, while there are other mental pictures that I've shelved as eternal truths.  

One such mental image is that of my grandfather Latella in Calabria.  The mental image I have is of Nonno under one of his beloved olive trees.  The image is simple enough; namely, an elderly man sitting underneath an ancient olive tree.  But the image in my mind is more detailed; it includes a weathered face molded by a happy, but difficult, life working the land, large hands gently removing leather working boots, and the same hands reaching for a bottle of cold wine to quench a thirst brought on by the mid-day Mediterranean sun.  The image of Nonno Latella represents the Southern Italian life for me; that is, a life of simple pleasures, fierce individualism, and a love for the land.  

IMG_5685

Nonno's love for his land, combined with his paternalistic tendencies towards his olive trees, yielded some pretty intense, first cold pressed, extra virgin olive oil (I describe it here in my Guide to Olive Oil).  The Italians from the rural South use olive oil from everything from simple tomato salads to deep frying arancini to lubricating shotguns and polishing leather shoes.  In the US, of course, we're a bit more selective about how we use olive oil and it's mostly a culinary lipid / liquid (thankfully!).

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Recently, I had the good fortune to sample some new extra virgin olive oils from Italy, including Titone (from the Trapanesi Valley in Sicilia), Frescobaldi Laudemio (from Firenze in Tuscana), Vittorio Cassini (from Liguria), and Frantoio Di Sommaia (from Calenzano in Tuscana), all imported by Manicaretti.  

Titone Extra Virgin Olive Oil is produced by a father / daughter team Nicola and Antonella.  The 5000 tree olive farm in Sicilia is organic and has a D.O.P status.  The Titone oil is limited quality and has a deep golden yellow/light green color.  The Titone family also hand picks all of their olives and the resulting oil has a sharp and pepper flavor base as well as complex grass and earthy elements.  I think Titone would work best with hot pasta or in a rustic (hot) potato salad.  

IMG_5688

Frescobaldi Laudemio Extra Virgin Olive Oil has won a ton of awards, including #1 Tuscan oil in 1997 by Wine Spectator and "Best of Olive Oil" at the 2001 Summer Fancy Food Show in New York.  The consortium that produces Laudemio has been around since the early 1990's and the filtered oil has nice notes, again, of pepper and lemon zest.  I like Laudemio drizzed over a hot bean soup or over roasted broccoli and red pepper flakes. 

IMG_5689

Vittorio Cassini was my favorite amongst the 4 olive oils I sampled.  Cassini is made from 100% Taggiasca olives and is a limited production oil.  The olive farm is located in the hills above the Ligurian coast between Nice and Genoa.  The olive oil itself has less pepper than the aforementioned oils and has a wonderful raw nut flavor which is clean and almost sweet.  Cassini is ideal for making pesto, tomato salads, or drizzling on a freshly baked pizza.  This is the least bitter and intense oil.

Frantoio Di Sommaia has been made by the Marini Bernardi family for almost 200 years.  The olives are hand picked and pressed via stone in Calenzano, Tuscana.  The family uses 100% Bianca olives.  The oil is unfiltered and extremely pungent, but has a wonderful buttery mouth feel.  Frantoio would work well with an arugula salad or drizzled over fresh basked bread with coarsely ground black pepper.  

In honor of Nonno Latella (who's still alive but upset he doesn't get to go to the farm as often as he once did) Scordo.com is giving away a bottle of Vittorio Cassini Extra Virgin Oil!  The oil was my favorite amongst the four bottles I recently sampled and I'm sure you'll enjoy a bottle of the expertly crafted oil.  

orchards1
(photo: Latella family olive orchard outside of Pellegrina, Italy)

Here's what you need to do to enter the Nonno Latella Extra Virgin Olive Oil Contest

- 1. leave a comment under this post on how you use olive and which olive oil you normally purchase (doesn't need to be a fancy kind, just what you use and like) and 2. sign up as a fan of Scordo.com on Facebook here or Scordo.com newsletter, it doesn't need to be both).  If you've done both already, then I'll ask you if you can please re-tweet the article on Twitter and include the article URL in the RT: http://bit.ly/cVgYQT and @scordo in your tweet)
 
- Only one entry per person please.

- The contest is open until 12 midnight on 3/20 and a single random user will be picked via Random.org.  The winner will be announced immediately on Twitter (so please follow me) and on Scordo.com by 5PM on Monday, 3/22.

- Please use a valid email address when leaving a comment so I can contact you just in case you're the lucky winner (I'll need your shipping address). 

- Manicaretti Italian Food Imports will send out the bottle of Vittorio Cassini olive oil to the single contest winner during the week of 3/29.

That's it, so please sign up for a chance to win a wonderful bottle of extra virgin olive.  If you can't wait to sample the olive oil then head on over to the Manicaretti site to find out how to buy some!
IMG_5740
(photo: Tripolini close up)

The Northeast saw a monster wind and rain storm over the weekend with many downed trees and electrical lines.  Some of our neighbors in NJ also lost water pressure.  Luckily our home was spared and we didn't see any crashing white pine, sycamore, or silver maple, as was the case a couple of years ago when a large silver maples crashed into our neighbors front porch.

IMG_5735
(photo: Meatball close up)

With high winds and rainy weather I become like a house cat looking for comfort and, as you've probably guessed it, my mind turns to the ultimate comfort food: pasta!  

On Sunday I consumed pasta shape #149 Tripolini (via the Scordo Pasta Challenge) with a braised meat (baby back pork ribs, pork sausage, and meatballs) tomato sauce.  Tripolini are oversized fettuccine with ridges on both edges of the pasta.  Growing up, Tripolini was a specialty pasta we only had once or twice a month (I suppose it was hard to find and commanded a higher price) and we consumed it with a braised chicken tomato sauce.  

The pasta brand is Paone.


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IMG_5734

IMG_5732 
(photo: braised meats: spare ribs, sausage, and meatballs) 

IMG_5733
trennecloseup
(photo: close up of Trenne before mixing with sauce or condiment).

Here we go, the first pasta dish consumed for the Scordo Pasta Challenge or Vincenzo Eats His Way Through Every Pasta Shape Known to Man!  

#149 Trenne

Think of Trenne pasta as the "quill" pasta; that is to say, Trenne are shaped like a writing instrument that is triangular in shape.  Trenne is a more modern and angular version of Penne (Trenne has the lines of a new Cadillac or Acura sedan).  Trenne is probably best consumed with an abundant and loose codiment or sauce (think of a cream based sauce or maybe summery marinara with chunks of tomatoe, basil, and garlic).

>>New to cooking pasta, here are my 8 Tips for making perfect pasta at home!

I decided to pair small peas with Trenne and the pasta didn't disappoint (the brand was Rustichella).  Here are the ingredients for the sauce:

- Half a package of frozen, organic, peas (if you have happen to have fresh peas then go for it!)
- 3-4 cloves of garlic diced on a diagnal 
- Half a red onion finely diced
- Freshly ground pepper and Kosher salt to taste
- 1 tablespoon of salted butter
- 3-4 tablespoons of olive oil
- 1/2 cup of grated Grana Padano
- 1/2 cup of starchy pasta water

IMG_5683
(photo: after mixing the sauce with the Trenne)

In a large sauté pan add your olive oil and butter (pan should be hot before adding fats).  Next, add your onion and garlic and begin to slowly sauté over medium heat.  Add some salt and pepper.  Next, add your peas and stir well.  Add a bit more salt and pepper and reduce your heat.  Drain your pasta and add the Trenne to your pan containing the sauce; mix the pasta with your condiment and add some of the starchy pasta water (your pan should have a medium flame going) .  Next, add a bit more olive oil and the grated cheese. 

Follow the pasta with a piece of salmon and a small arugula salad.  Pair the dish with a chilled Ciro Rosato!

>>New to cooking pasta, here are my 8 Tips for making perfect pasta at home!
    
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