Recently in olive oil Category

(photo:  The lovely Taggiasca olive from Liguria in northwestern Italy) 

(photo:Italian durum wheat pasta made by Carlo)

(photo: spaghetti chitarra with tomato sauce, ricotta, and peas; see below for recipe)

The now immortalized copywriter turned French cook Julia Child remarked once that, "anyone can make a bowl of pasta but it takes a skilled chef to put out a fine French meal."  You can imagine my reaction to the quote and my thinking on Child's comment; namely, she's full of rubbish, to put in mildly.  

The act of making pasta, to address the specific attack on Italian food, is not a simple task.  Preparing a dish such as linguine fine with pesto requires that the home cook understands when to pick fresh basil (did you know basil becomes more and more bitter as you pick more leaves?), how much olive oil to add to the pesto mixture, how long to cook the pasta, how much starchy water to save and add to the condiment, how much extra virgin olive oil to add to the final step of marrying pasta with condiment, how much heat to apply to the mixing of pasta and condiment so as not to destroy the basil flavor, what sort of grated cheese to use, etc.  

(photo: Sangaspano extra virgin olive oil from Messina, Sicilia)

On the morning of December 28th, 1908 a massive earthquake and associated tsunami hit the western province of Calabria and moved across the Stretto di Messina into Sicilia destroying city after city (including Reggio Calabria and Messina).  In Messina alone 60,000 people were killed and in Calabria our family lost many people, including small children.  In total, over 100,000 people were killed in 1908 making it the deadliest earthquake in European history.    

(photo: 2010 Olio Verde extra virgin olive oil from Sicilia, I had to scramble and take a photo before I consumed it all!)
 
Any time I'm asked to taste a product from the southern provinces of Italy I get excited, very excited.  There's of course a sense of pride knowing a product is made from an area you know well and have a connection with; in fact, I get the same sensation when I taste anything made with care from New Jersey (e.g., tomatoes, beer, diner food, etc.).  

One of my favorite ways to consume olive oil is via the simple and humble tomato salad.  Our tomato salad is prepared with red onion, basil, dried oregano, Kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper and the best extra virgin olive oil we can get our hands on.  

Recently, we've fallen in love with two extra virgin olive oils that seem to have been made just for tomato salads (and, by association, whole milk mozzarella).  Specifically, we're talking about Pace da Poggio Etrusco and Laudemio Frescobaldi.  The Pace de Poggio Etrusco hails from Siena in Toscana and has a slightly sweet character along with floral and herbal notes.  The Laudemio Frescobaldi (first pressing, 2010) from Chianti Ruffina has peppery notes and reminds me of the many spring vegetables such as artichoke, asparagus, and peas.   

(photo: Fish Sauce dish with squid, scallops, and clams awaiting pasta)

Mention pasta to me and my mind drifts to fresh parsley, sliced garlic, dried red chillies, and high quality extra virgin olive oil.  In my view, the four aforementioned ingredients make up the world's best pasta sauce or condiment.  Sure, one can argue that a well executed tomato sauce (with or without braised meats) or even a sauce comprised of wild mushrooms would present great competition for parsley, garlic, hot pepper flakes, and olive oil but I'm not entirely convinced.

(photo: an Italian tuna sandwich with tomato salad prepared with Pace da Poggio Etrusco extra virgin olive oil) 

As many of you know we keep plenty of high quality tuna in olive oil in our Italian pantry at all times!  And we usually prepare our tuna in two ways: 1. as a stand alone salad to be consumed with olives, cheese, and salumi or 2. as a simple Italian tuna sandwich combined with high quality bread.  

About 25 minutes northwest of Florence in the small wine growing region of Carmignano you'll find the estate of Tenuta di Capezzana - an estate that has been producing olive oil since the year 980.  I was lucky enough to sample the 2010 Capezzana November harvest and was immediately taken by it's mind bending color; a neon green slap in the face that is especially vibrant against whole milk mozzarella.  The color is partly due to the fact that Capezzana picks their olives when they are still green.

Eating food without family and friends, however, doesn't provide the same sort of existential experience mentioned.  In fact, eating alone is more akin to Nihilism if we're going to use fancy philosophical terms; that is to say, why deny yourself one of the more meaningful aspects of life?  

Eating with my family has always been a large part of my life and I suspect it's the case for many of our readers (Italian and non Italian).  I've also spent a good chunk of my life making food with others and it all started with my mother and grandmother.  One dish I was reminded of making with my grandmother recently was a fresh cracked olive salad.  Cracked olive salad is made in Calabria and Sicilia and is great as a side dish with a slice of pizza or with grilled or roasted meats.  Here's the Scordo family recipe (and another great recipe in Italian):

Crush the olives individually and remove the pit; you can use a hammer like nonna did or a metal meat tenderizer works well. Place the cracked olives in a large bowl and fill with water and let sit for 24 hours (in a cool area of your home or the fridge).  You'll need to let the olives sit in water for 8-10 days (yes, it's a long process); changing the water every 24 hours.  Once the olives have become soft (note: you'll want to have some crunch in the olive) remove them from the water and let drain in a large colander for 10-12 hours (you can add a heavy object <a gallon of water, for example> to help remove any excess water).  Finally, add the rest of the ingredients and stir well.  The salad keeps very well in the fridge.

There are a few Italian food products that take some getting used to; I would include items like amari or digestivi, authentic espresso, meats such as rabbit and goat, etc.  High quality extra virgin olive oil may also take some getting used to if the individual is not accustomed to the intense flavor profile of, say, a first cold pressed extra virgin olive oil (he or she may only experience bitter and sour flavors at first).

The 2009 Gargiulo Sorrentolio Venus organic extra virgin olive oil is an example of a well made oil that has no learning curve or entry level barrier.  That is to say, Gargiulo Sorrentolio Venus organic is "mild" and "sweet" by Italian extra virgin olive oil standards and is an ideal "starter" extra virgin olive oil.

The oil color is bright (yellow with very little green overtones).  The Gargiulo Sorrentolio Venus works well as a finishing oil in soups and with fresh salads like tomato or mozzarella.  The oil would also work well with simple pasta dishes like parsley, red pepper flake and garlic or clam sauce.  The only negative to the organic olive oil is that it's slightly greasy on the palate with a bit of heaviness (in terms of mouth feel). 

Gargiulo is produced, since 1849, in Sant'Agnello, Sorrento (south of Naples and on the mainland near the island of Capri).  The oil is made from the following olives: Ogliarola (Minucciola), Rotondella, Frantoio, and Leccino.    

I like the Gargiulo Sorrentolio Venus organic extra vigin olive oil so much that it's going to be my go to olive oil for holiday gifts (perfect for that person who's just starting to appreciate fine olive oils). You can find the oil at the excellent online shop olio2go.com, run by a wonderful woman named Luanne!  

(photo: the beautiful, 1 liter, tin housing Frankies Sicilian olive oil and a salad of tomatoes, red onion, and basil)
  
Amongst southern Italians there's a deep rivalry between Calabrians and Sicilians.  If you travel to Calabria's old capital Reggio Calabria, you'll see many Sicilian influences from the regional dialect to arancini and the breakfast delicacy brioce (a type of sweet bread that is served with a scoop of ice cream).  Both regions have unyielding loyalty to their traditions and way of life and it's not entirely clear what food or cultural item or tradition originated in which region (at least that's what the locals will tell you).  

(photo: the Zitoni Cararecci - notice the length of this mammoth pasta shape!)

(photo: the organic extra virgin olive oil from La Poderina from Grosseto)

(photo: the super pungent Rosselli del Turco extra virgin olive oil)

 

(photo: lavish pizza made with the Umbrian Spice Blend)

 

(thanks to the A Beautiful Mosaic blog for the photo.)

I view roasted peppers as the ultimate condiment; that is to say, you can include roasted peppers in your antipasto, sandwich, as a side with grilled meats, or even include them in your favorite grilled cheese sandwich or omelet.  Sound tasty; then stop buying the jarred stuff and make them at home!

- 5-6 large red or yellow bell peppers (green peppers tend to be tougher and contain less flavor in my opinion)

- 3-4 tablespoons of olive oil

- bunch of parsley or basil (if it's the summer use basil)

- dried oregano, salt, and pepper to taste.

- 1 clove of garlic

Start witf the large red bell peppers and char the peppers over an open flame (in the winter you can accomplish this right on your gas stove top <just place the pepper right on the grate!>, in the summer it's nice to char right on the barbecue).

You'll want to cook the peppers until they are fully black or singed.  You'll also want to make sure the peppers are nice and soft, if the pepper is still hard to the touch you'll need to continue roasting.

Remove the peppers from the heat source and let cool for 5-10 minutes.  DO NOT USE WATER to remove the charred skin.  Simply use your hands to get rid of the blackened skin, you shouldn't have a problem with this step if you cooked the peppers long enough (and a little bit of black skin will not kill you).  The pepper will still be hot when you begin peeling so resist the urge to use cold water (if you become a serious cook you'll eventually develop "Nonna hands" and be impervious to hot things in the kitchen <you'll be able to pick up hot pans without oven mitts and stir soup with your bare hands - just joking on the latter>).  You can place the charred peppers in a brown bag once they come off the heat (let them sit for 10-15 minutes and the skin should fall off the pepper).  

Next remove the stems and seeds (you will want to remove as many as the seeds as possible).  Cut the peppers into long 1/4 inch strips and place in a container that can store in the fridge (with a top). 

Add the olive oil, parsley, dried oregano, salt and pepper, and finely chopped garlic and mix well.  Let sit for about an hour and enjoy (the peppers should marinate before consuming).  Red peppers store well and they keep in the fridge for well over a week. 

(photo: finished product!)

However, I cooked up a batch of Paccheri and simply added very good extra virgin olive oil, freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana Padano, and lots of coursley ground black pepper for my Scordo Pasta Challenge this past Thursday. If I had fresh ricotta (recipe to come!) in the house then I would have included a bit of it as well.  

I enjoyed the dish with a glass of Aglianico from Campania or Basilicata.  Now go and enjoy the weather if you live on the East Coast!

(photo: Latella family olive orchard outside of Pellegrina, Italy)

(photo: Latella family olive orchard outside of Pellegrina, Italy)

Italians consume olive oil like it's water.  My grandparents used olive oil for cooking, shining shoes, preserving food, lubricating machinery (including various shotguns), curing various ailments (including stomach ulcers), etc.  I wouldn't recommend you use olive oil to lubricate your shotgun given other alternatives on the market, but if you produced your own olive oil (as my grandparents once did) you'd probably find alternative uses for the golden liquid as well!

If you're going to stick to olive oil for preparing and eating food, then you have plenty of good choices on the US market.  First, let's start with some basics about olive oil (including extra virgin olive oil):

1. Olive oil doesn't get better with age.  In fact, olive is meant to be consumed as quickly as possible (fresh=good).  All olive oil should be consumed within 18 months after it is bottled.
   
   
2. Olive oil doesn't like light or warm temperatures.  In turn, it should be stored in a cool, dry, and dark environment.  Air / Oxygen is also an enemy of olive oil.
   
   
3. Olive oil is a type of fat (like butter and lard) and has a good amount of calories.
   
   
4. Unlike butter, for example, olive oil has wonderful health benefits due to its high content of monounsaturated fatty acids as well as high content of antioxidative substances.  
   
   
5. Olive oil helps lower bad cholesterol and helps with good cholesterol.
   
   
6. Extra virgin olive oil is produced without using heat or chemicals (extra virgin olive oil also must have an acidity level of less than one percent).
   
   
7. Olive oil is extracted from crushed olives.

Everyday Oil in the US and Italy

Both my grandparents and parents have told me wonderful stories about harvesting olives on the family farm in southern Italy (see La Cucina Italiana's guide to regional olive oil) and the process involved to produce both first press olive oil (that is, the first batch of olive oil produced via an old fashioned press; nowadays, most olive oil is produced via continuous centrifugal presses) and extra virgin olive oil.  I've tasted much of the olive oil produced by my family in Italy and to be perfectly honest the olive oil is extremely intense and almost too flavorful and viscous for everyday use (at least for my American palette).  Fresh, extra virgin olive oil, is almost a guild the lily type condiment (maybe to be used with a ready to explode ripe San Marzano tomato or drizzled over a freshly baked piece of bread); you wouldn't want to cook or make a salad dressing with the aformentioned extra virgin olive oil.   

In terms of everyday olive oil that can be purchased in most supermarkets in the US, I have a couple of favorites:

• Filippio Berio Olive Oil for everyday use- I find this olive great for both cooking (frying, sautéing, etc.) and using raw in salads and for finishing dishes (like bruschetta, any type of sauce for meat, etc.).  There is a definite olive taste to Berio and it's not overly oily like many mediocre olive oils on the market today.
• Colovita Extra Virgin Olive Oil for items that don't require cooking - I use Colovita Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO as Rachel Ray like to say) for pasta sauces, tomato salads, and for dunging soft crusty bread from my favorite bakery (Sullivan Street!).  Unlike celebrity chefs such as Mario Batali, I don't believe in using extra virgin olive oil exclusively in my kitchen (that is to say, for cooking, finishing, raw, etc.).  
• Bertolli Olive Oil - Bertolli is very similar to Berio in terms of quality, taste, and use.  In fact, I have a hard time discerning between the two, however I do have a preference for Berio if I'm faced with a choice at my local supermarket.  

Luxury Food: Italian Extra Virgin Olive Oil

In terms of high end olive oils from small producers, it's really a hit or miss type of thing.  We review many high end extra virgin olive oils from Italy and, for the most part, they are all extraordinary (with subtle variations in color and flavor) but very expensive.  

If you're lucky enough to live near a large city many Italian speciality shops bottle their own form of extra virgin olive oil from Italy and it usually presents a good value.  For example, here on the East coast I've tried extra virgin olive oil from Bartolomeo's Italian Food Emporium (click here for a review of the shop from Jason Perlow at Off the Broiler) in New Jersey. Bartolomeo imports the oil from olive orchards in Puglia and the product is both of decent quality and good value. 

My recommendation on finding specialty olive oil is to try different producers and stick with a brand once you find something you like (also be sure to buy in small quantities unless you plan on using the oil every day).  Also, price doesn't equal quality.  In fact, I would opt for a fresh, recently produced bottle over an expensive extra virgin, first pressed, olive oil that has been sitting on the shelf for 6+ months exposed to light, warm temperatures, and air.  

Finally, as I've said about wine, you should only buy and use what you like (don't listen to critics unless you've tried the product yourself).