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(photo: the author of Cucina Povera, Pamela Sheldon Johns)

If you were to tell people that Italy and America have a few things in common you'd most likely receive some awkward stares.  After all, America is a country driven by capitalism and rationality while Italy operates under a lifestyle driven worldview with importance placed on living well and understanding the subtleties of day to day existence (at least outside of large cities like Milan, Rome, and Turin!).      

With the above in mind, Pamela Sheldon Johns reminds us that there may, in fact, be some similarities in how we live in both the United States and Italy.  Pamela, through her new cookbook Cucina Povera - Tuscan Peasant Cooking, recounts her mother's days on a Midwest farm during the Great Depression, using everything around her and not wasting a single fruit or leftover.  Pam also describes the same tendencies in Tuscan women, having moved to to Tuscany to establish culinary workshops and write countless cookbooks.  So, maybe there's more in common between the two countries than we think!
 
(photo: the cover of Impariamo l'Italiano con l'Aiuto della Mano! <Let's Learn Italian with the Help of our Hand!> by Giuliana Sica)

When folks discover that I have an Italian last time and parents who were born in Italy they immediately ask if I speak Italian.  My answer is a definitive yes though I always qualify my fluency with the fact that I grew up speaking a regional, southern Italian, dialect (my Italian has become more formal since my childhood days, however).  

Dialects, of course, are examples of full blown languages with formal syntax and speakers of a Sicilian or Calabrian dialect, for example, should be proud of their ability.  In fact, the formal Italian spoken in Italy today developed from the 14th century dialect of Toscana (mostly because it varies least from classical Latin and the Floretine culture was, at the time, producing great works of literature via Boccaccio and Dante).
(photo: the photos found in the Glorious Pasta of Italy are truly impressive; on the left is a photo of our pasta pesto) 

There's no way around the obvious fact that Italians are slaves to pasta.  The typical Italian (northern or southern in origin) consumes pasta multiple times per week, in various shapes and sizes, and in varying dishes from the simple to the extraordinaire.

Here at Scordo we've covered original pasta recipes, challenged ourselves to consume every documented pasta shape on Earth, and reviewed numerous pasta cookbooks.  The latest in the line of superb books covering the exquisite food type pasta is Domenica Marchetti's The Glorious Pasta of Italy.  The American born Marchetti was trained as a newspaper reporter but now makes her living writing recipes and working on cooking techniques (she also runs a nice web site).  Domenica developed a love for cooking via her mother and spent her childhood summers in Chieti, Abruzzo.
(photo: grapes in Calabria, thanks to Pierro Morello for the photo)

A Student of Italian Wine 

Dan Amatuzzi is a modest guy when it comes to wine.  And modesty isn't the word that comes to mind when you consider Dan served as the sommelier at Del Posto in New York City with an estimated 2300 bottles of wine and arguably the most comprehensive Italian wine list ever conceived at a single restaurant.  Moreover, Dan was the wine director at OTTO restaurant and is currently the Manager of the beverage department at Eataly in New York City.   

So, Dan knows Italian wines, right? Yes, Dan is an Italian wine expert but if you ask him what he is he'll tell you he's a student of wine (and a nice guy).  The word student implies Dan needs to continue learning and refine his skill set when it comes to wine and it's a great mind set to have when working in the wine world; in fact, it's a great life philosophy (period).


Our 22 month old son Tommaso has been on a frenetic streak over the last 6 months, that is to say, he has both the energy and ferocity to take on any task including doing full fledge sprints with theatrical spins and twirls, pooping dramatically, greeting family members and complete strangers ad nauseam, separating his parents from a warm embrace and kiss (read: jealousy), and reading letters/sections of books with Herculean zeal.



A while back I wrote about my definition of the la cucina povera or the kitchen of the poor.  I view la cucina povera as a style of cooking centered on cooking with whatever, non bourgeois, ingredients are in the house.  My family in Calabria once cooked in the above manner (mostly due to economic reasons but also because what was "in the house" included the farm and items like milk and cheese, olives, vegetables, wheat, some meat, some cured meats, beans, and some fish).  And la cucina povera of early to mid twentieth century Calabria is probably closer to today's haute cuisine than the poorman's food everyone associates with peasant cooking.
(photo: from the Geometry of Pasta, Hildenbrand and Kenedy; Gemelli pasta shape.)

See Below for Contest and Book GiveAway!

You have to admire any book that documents well over 110 authentic Italian pasta sauces and the hundreds of pasta shapes that marry best to a given sauce.  If a book goes further and contains beautifully rendered graphic shapes for each pasta then you have a timeless cookbook that should be part of every Italian kitchen.  

Caz Hildebrand and Jacob Kenedy's recently published The Geometry of Pasta, in it's simplest form, is a guide to basic pasta shapes (and a topic that has been covered exhaustively by Oretta Zanini De Vita in her magnificent work the Encyclopedia of Pasta).  However, what elevates the book to a worthwhile work is the emphasis on the critical, and often overlooked concept that:

the form (namely, the pasta shape) is critical, and deeply related to, the flavor (pasta condiment or sauce).
(photo: Making pasta; illustration from the 15th century edition of Tacuinum Sanitatis, a Latin translation of the Arabic work Taqwīm al-sihha by Ibn Butlan.)

The Italian People and Pasta

Just in case you were having sleepless nights concerning the birthplace of pasta, the esteemed food critic, Oretta Zanini de Vita confirms that there were records of pasta in Italy 500 years before Marco Polo returned from China; so pasta was, in fact, invented in Italy.  I'm glad we cleared the air on this bit of trivia so we can get to the important stuff!


My first experience with the Italian language was in utero and I suspect I overheard a conversation between my mother and grandmother in relation to food (something along the the lines, "cosa stai facendo per la cena?" or what are you making for dinner?).  Post birth, I didn't aquire English until I was five or so; legend has it that my mother dropped me off at kindergarten class in 1981 and the teacher asked if I just flew in from Milan given my brown leather boots, Merino wool short sleeved turtle neck, deep tan, and inability to speak the English language?  My kindergarten teacher, Mrs. Biggio, argued that I should work on my English at home and register for school the following year.  Of course, my mother refused and told, not suggested, Mrs. Biggio I was ready for school and that I would pick up English quickly.  

Needless to say, I was speaking full blown English by the time Christmas arrived and I may have even been permitted to wear a pair of white sneakers to class on occasion (I'll save my snack time story for another post).



My mother was right to suggest to Mrs Biggio that I start school even though my primary language was not English given how our brains our structured for language acquisition.  That is to say, most linguists agree that the time period from birth to just prior to puberty is a golden period in terms of language acquisition and that the "language acquisition device" -- a mechanism which enables an individual to recreate correctly the rules (grammar) and certain other characteristics of language used by speakers around the learner is strongest during the aforementioned time period.  

I was fortunate to be raised in two language communities (one that spoke Italian <viz., my family> and another that spoke English <viz., school, community, etc>) so the second language acquisition thing came easily.  However, what if you're immediate family does not speak a second language and you're only exposed to English?  The best strategy for learning Italian as a second language is to start young and to expose the child to an Italian speaking community as often as possible.  A well stocked Italian children's book library wouldn't hurt, as well.



ABC Italiano is one such children's book I highly recommend.  The book, written and illustrated by Sonya Caruso, is a simple and wonderful introduction to Italian for your toddler.  We "tested" ABC Italiano on our 16 month old son and he thoroughly enjoyed the minimalist illustrations and selected words for each letter of the Italian alphabet.  As my elementary education teacher wife suggested, the book is perfect for a young Italian language learner and both the word set the author selected along with the colorful and simple illustrations make for a great introduction to the Italian language.

In fact, we're so excited about ABC Italiano that we've partnered with the author to give two copies of the book away to two lucky Scordo.com readers.  As always, there a few caveats: 

- Prize Giveaway includes two (2) copies of ABC Italian to two distinct participants (i.e, only one entry per person please; one person cannot win two copies) 

- What you need to do to enter: 1. leave a comment under this post on why preserving the Italian language is important to you and 2. "Like" the Scordo.com Facebook Fan page and the  Italian Baby Books page.  If you're a fan of Scordo on Facebook already then you'll need to click on "suggest to friends" link underneath the Scordo logo on our Facebook Fan page and spread the word to all of your friends! 

- The contest is open until 12 midnight on 12/20 and two random user will be picked via Random.org (sorry contest only open to folks from the US given shipping logistics).  The winner will be announced immediately on Twitter (so please follow me) and on Scordo.com by 5PM on Monday, 12/21. 

- Please use a valid email address when leaving a comment so I can contact you just in case you're the lucky winner (I'll need your shipping address). 

- Mamma Caruso will send out the book during the week of 12/27.

Good luck and thanks for keeping the Italian language alive and well in the United States

(photo: cover of My Calabria)

Authentic Calabria


When I see or experience anything with a resemblance of Calabrian authenticity here in the United States I get very excited.   I had a wonderful experience stumbling across Mary Palmer's very genuine, and heartfelt, cookbook Cucina di Calabria at a used book store during my college days.  Along the same lines, when I recently sampled a small artisan gelato made in Pennsylvania (Gelato di Baba) the hazelnut flavor brought me back to my childhood days strolling the streets of Reggio di Calabria with my Uncle and cousins (with gelato in hand).

Flipping through Rosetta Costantino's new cookbook "My Calabria", I experienced the same aforementioned sense of authenticity via her recipes, photos, and general understanding of the southernmost province in Italy.  


(photo: the varying parts of a pig, photo courtesy of Meat Salt Time by Tony Seichrist)

 I have to admit, I have an addiction.  Specifically, my addiction is centered on the mighty pig and it's cured off-spring, Salami!  

Salumi (the plural for salami) is made from either a single, whole, cut (e.g., Prosciutto) or ground parts of the pig.  All salumi (at times referred to as charcuterie) is cured, including some type of spice, and is aged for varying periods of time (for most Italians, cooked pork products, such as mortadella and prosciutto cotto, would also be considered salumi). 

Some of the more popular salumi in Italy include, Cotechino or Zampone, Guanciale, Lardo, Pancetta, Salame, Salame genovese di Sant'Olcese, Felino, 'Nduja, Soppressata, Ciauscolo, Prosciutto, Prosciutto di Parma, Prosciutto di San Daniele, Speck, Culatello (a personal favorite), Culaccia / Culatta, Prosciutto cotto, Capicola (another personal favorite), etc.  See my guide to salumi for more information. 

Scroll down for a chance to win a great book on how salami is made!

(photo: Salumi drying in cells and developing mold.  photo courtesy of Meat Salt Time by Tony Seichrist)

All great salami starts with a high quality pig, such as Duroc, Ossabaw, Mangalitsa, Pata Negra, etc.  And salumi such as Felino or Soppressata are made from different parts of the pig including the neck, belly, loin, jowl, etc.  The pig parts need to be ground before the spicing and stuffing process can begin. And as you probably guessed, both the lean and fatty parts of the pig are used during the grinding process (in fact, this is a key step because a good salumi needs a good ratio of fatty to lean meat).  Before the grinding takes place, most salumi makers coarsely chop their cuts of meat and thereafter it goes through a coarse grind plate.  Next, the meat is ready for salt and spice.  

The best salumi makers, such as Christiano Creminelli (who is the subject of a new book by Tony Seichrist entitled, "Meat Salt Time), use high quality sea salt and spices such as black pepper, garlic powder, nutmeg, dextrose or sugar, chili flakes, cloves, fennel seed, juniper berries, white pepper, etc.  The spices vary according to the type of salumi being produced, but most salumi are usually comprised of about 3% salt.  

(photo: Different Salumi spices, in this case the type of spices used by Creminelli.  photo courtesy of Meat Salt Time by Tony Seichrist)

After the spicing process, the salumi mixture is stuffed into a natural casing and tied and the critical fermentation process begins.  During the fermentation process, they key goal is to control temperature and humidity.  As Seichrist explains:

"The temperature and humidity are primed for bacterial growth, and the sugars in the recipe provide food for the growing culture.  As the bacteria begin to multiply and consume the sugars, there is a sudden drop in PH.  It is this sudden lowering of the pH that renders salumi completely safe to eat."  

The fermentation process also allows the salt in the meat to pull the water out of the salumi (this is what "drys the salumi and the high humidity during the process prevents the meat from drying out too much").  The ideal temperature at the beginning of the fermentation process is about 73-75 degrees with humidity close to 100 percent.  After about 10 hours, the humidity level needs to be dropped to 60 percent (for about 5 hours) with a gradual drop in temperature, as well.  After the 5 hours the humidity level is raised slowly (during a 4-5 day process) to about 75-85 percent with a temperature between 55-60 degrees.  The salumi stay in the aforementioned environmental conditions (usually in a curing cell when making large production batches) for about 17 days (during which critical mold and bacteria is created as well), in total.  

Are you interested in learning more about the salami making process and how high quality artisan producers such as Creminelli make their products?  If so, enter to win your very own copy of Meat Salt Time ; the book includes some of the best food photography I've seen(!):

- Only one entry per person please.

- The contest is open until 12 midnight on 10/4 and a single (1) random user will be picked via Random.org (sorry contest only open to folks from the US given shipping logistics).  The winner will be announced immediately on Twitter (so please follow me) and on Scordo.com by 8PM on Tuesday, 10/7.

- Requirements (both are needed): 1. Become a fan of Scordo.com on Facebook (if you're a fan already please "share" the page on your Facebook account) and 2. leave a comment here on your favorite food process, that is, something like making salami that you know well (e.g., making homemade pasta or fried chicken).  

- The book publisher will send out the book to a single contest winner during the week of 10/11.
  
(photo: Christiano monitoring the butchering process. photo courtesy of Meat Salt Time by Tony Seichrist)


(Photo: Mary Ann Esposito, photo courtesy of NY Mag)

Every big idea or theory has an associated sound bite.  The French philosopher Rene Descartes is remembered for his famous line, "I think, therefore I am.", the chef Jacques Pepin loves to utter, "fast food my way", and the chef, turned uber capitalist Lidia Bastianich (see the mega Italian Mall, Eataly, just opened with Mario Batali and Lidia's son, Joe) loves to utter "Tutti a tavola a mangiare" (translated roughly as everyone come to the tables it's time to eat - kind of ordinary sounding in English!) after she prepares her TV meal.

If the Italian table had an associated sound bite it would be something like, "simple ingredients make outstanding food."  Give me a few days and I'll jazz up the tag line, but the idea of simple, great tasting, food made via fresh and seasonal ingredients is at the heart of what it means to eat or cook like an Italian

For PBS host and cookbook author Mary Ann Esposito she's taken the idea that the best Italian food is made via simple, and fresh, ingredients as a literal truth and just released her new cookbook, Ciao Italia: Five Ingredient Favorites.  Mary Ann's book includes recipes (from dinner to dessert) that are made with five ingredients or less (including salt and pepper).  Some of my favorites include pork chops with pistachio crust, Prosciutto di Parma and pine nut pizza, and chocolate, hazelnut and banana tartlets.


(Photo: Mushroom and celery salad from Ciao Italia Five ingredient Favorites by Mary Ann Esposito. St Martins Press, NY)

In honor of the new cookbook and the fact that I used to see Mary Ann Esposito on the campus of the University of New Hampshire (she tapped her PBS show Ciao Italia close to campus) during my undergraduate years (I never had the courage to introduce myself), I interviewed Mary Ann and asked her a series of questions about her Italian American experience and how she defines Italian cooking.



Moreover, Scordo.com has also partnered with Mary Ann to offer one lucky reader a chance to win a free copy of Ciao Italia: Five Ingredient Favorites!  Here's what you'll need to do to enter the contest:

- Become a fan (or encourage somone to fan) Scordo.com on Facebook and leave a comment on our wall on your favorite, simple, Italian recipe or food and 2. Become a fan of Mary Ann on Facebook.

- Only one entry per person please.

- The contest is open until 12 midnight on 9/9 and a single (1) random user will be picked via Random.org (sorry contest only open to folks from the US given shipping logistics).  The winner will be announced immediately on Twitter (so please follow me) and on Scordo.com by 8PM on Friday, 9/10.

- Please be sure to send me an email to let me know you've become a fan on Facebook (sorry, Facebook doesn't allow me to sort by new fans), email me at blog at scordo dot com

- Mary Ann's publisher will send out the book to a single contest winner during the week of 9/13.

Finally, here's my interview with Mary Ann, enjoy: 

Question One:
Tell us what it means to be an Italian-American and how you would best suggest to young Italian-Americans to keep our traditions alive and well (across food, lifestyle, and general living)?

Mary Ann's Answer:
"It means everything to me because the Italian culture has historically set the standard for so much of world achievements.  When you think of inventions, art, architecture, music, saints, science, religion, fashion, family and food, much of it has been attributed to the Italians. Young Italian Americans should involve themselves in organizations like the National Italian American Foundation, study Italian in school and on their own and above all talk to their family members about the history of the immigrants who made them who they are today. I try to do this through our web site ciaoitalia.com and Mary Ann Esposito Foundation which encourages would be chefs to study Italian regional cooking. You can learn more about the foundation on the web site."

Question Two:
What part of Italy did your family originate from?  What traditions do you (or your family) bring to the US from Italy?

Mary Ann's Answer:
My family is from the province of Avellino in the region of Campania and Caltanisetta in Sicily. My grandparents were very proud but poor people. First and foremost they brought strength and a fearless attitude. They brought strong religious faith. They brought their skills of tailoring and farming and olive culture. They made wine; we did the same. They cultivated gardens; we did the same. They made all their own food; we do the same. I try to emulate their traditions by recreating the foods I grew up via my books and my PBS series television, Ciao Italia now in its 21st year of broadcast. I also keep my family traditions alive through my blog.

Question Three:
How you define Italian cooking at home?

Mary Ann's Answer:
Fresh, in season ingredients, treated simply to keep the integrity of the food. All my cookbooks stress this.


(Photo: Pistachio pork chops from Ciao Italia Five Ingredient Favorites by Mary Ann Esposito. St Martins Press, NY)

Question Four:
You have a Masters Degree in history from the University of New Hampshire; has your knowledge of history impacted how you cook and see the world?

Mary Ann's Answer:
Absolutely. When I wrote my thesis on a Renaissance Italian cooking manuscript, I began my introduction by saying without food there is no history. Food and history are inseparable. Early foods like grains, legumes and puls allowed civilization to flourish and many wars were waged over whether there was food or not. In Italian culture, food is the cornerstone of everything. Take bread as an example. When I make it, I am reminded of how this simple staple from water and flour is still the staple food of third world and emerging nations. I see that waste not want not quality that my grandparents had who revered bread so much that not a bit was every wasted. To this day, I never throw away stale bread, using it instead for bread salads, as fillers for vegetables, to sprinkle over pasta dishes and as what has come to be very chic and in today, the bruschetta or crostino.

On Ciao Italia I give you not only a recipe but the story behind the recipe; where does it come from, why is it named so. The Mary Ann Esposito Foundation's goal is to keep the history and traditions surrounding Italian regional foods alive. I want the next generation of Italian Americans to take over where I leave off so we can preserve our heritage for generations to come.

Question Five:
What are some of your favorite recipes and food types outside of traditional pasta with tomato sauce, for example?

Mary Ann's Answer:
I love to make polenta and risotto as well as traditional breads and pizza. Once you start studying the regions of Italy and their local foods, you have a better understanding of why there really is no Italian food per se; there is only regional food. I love eels from the Veneto and from Sardinia; the bistecca of Florence and the porchetta of Umbria. Any eggplant dishes and rabbit stews are also favorites. I have so many that it would be impossible to mention them all here and that is why their importance has consumed me in my work.

Question Six:
What are the top five ingredients that you keep in your pantry at all times?

Mary Ann's Answer:
Extra virgin olive oils, imported semolina pastas, dried beans, arborio rice, San Marzano tomatoes. In fact my latest book is called Ciao Italia Five Ingredient Favorites and you would be surprised how much you can make with just 5 ingredients as opposed to a whole list!
08SlowFood
(photo: couch's whiting or blue whiting with red onion, peppers, and tomatoes)


(UPDATE 1/31/09: Contest is closed.  The winner is Evan Lucas!  Thanks to everyone for participating.)

In Elena Kostioukovitch's preface from the book, "Why Italians Love to Talk About Food" Elena asks, "And why is that you identify particular historic moments with references to food?"  The "you" Elena is referencing are the intelligentsia of the Italian landscape (i..e, scholars, journalists, historians, political figures, etc.) but she might as well be talking about the seamstress from Naples or the fisherman from Calabria.  You see, for most Italians, food is the identifier of moments (hence the phrase, "Parla come mangi" or Speak the Language of Your Food); it bonds Italians, allows them to experience pleasure, and defines what it means to lead a good life.  In America, we consume material or money, while in Italy its inhabitants eat wonderful foods to "live well and soundly" (and it's the most basic and pure form of consumption).  

18Pasta 
(photo: is that drying pasta or makeshift window curtains?)  

21Marches
(photo: the long process of harvesting saffron)

I have to confess, I was fascinated with Kostioukovitch's book well before I sat to read through the 450 pages.  My fascination wasn't, of course, centered on how a people could disregard economic or material status for the sake of food, but, rather, why anyone would want to chase the good life in any other manner beyond eating well.   You see, I learned early only to associate both important events in my life, as well as the mundane, with wonderful food.  For example, I associate my first trip as a boy to Italy with the taste of cold pressed extra virgin olive oil from Nonno Latella's small olive orchard outside of Bagnara Calabra.  The olive oil was different from the corn oil my Italian family consumed in the States (we couldn't afford olive oil in those days) and I quickly identified our trip to Calabria with the green nectar from many years to come.  And it wasn't just olive oil that formed strong references to key events in my life.  I still associate, vividly, the smell of frying dough with Christmas Eve (zeppola), boiling pasta water with Sunday mornings (linguine with a rabbit ragu), sun dried tomatoes , provolone cheese, and salami to my parent's Saturday evening dinner parties, and strong stove top espresso with my mother's breath.    

Kostioukovitch does a great job of documenting the same sort of food associations I mention above in her 19 chapters on Italian regions, history, and folklore.  I was particularly interested in her chapter on Calabria and it didn't disappoint.  Here are some interesting food and cultural tidbits on the southern Italian province of Calabria from Kostioukovitch:

24Mediterranean Diet
(photo: I'll take the zucchini blossoms!)

1. In some parts of Calabria, "farmers still read omens from a pig's entrails when it is taken to slaughter, as the Etruscan haruspices did."  I remember when Nonno Latella used to slaughter a given pig from his stock (about every 2 years or so) and the ritual was very solemn (he didn't do much reading or perform any rituals; rather he was focused on slaughtering the pig).

2. Calabrian women danced and shouted incantation to drive away evil spirits while kneading dough.  Both my Calabrian born grandparents kneaded plenty of dough and I don't remember them shouting, unless of course I came into the kitchen with dirty hands.  However, I do remember Nonna Scordo telling me I had very poor hip movement when I kneaded (she said I had no rhythm or style and she was right).  

03Veneto 
(photo: grilled seafood in Veneto)  

3. The sign of the cross is traced on loafs of bread before they enter the oven.  I'll have to ask Zia Giovanna if she performs this ritual in her bakery each morning.  My hunch is that she may on occasion trace a few crosses, given her belief that one can make major life decisions by placing a single drop of extra virgin olive oil in a bowl of water and then asking the oil to move in a certain manner (when she did this for me as a small child I thought we were playing the Oiju board game; I was slapped quickly and told to sit still).

4. Calabria was part of Magna Craecia (or "Greater Greece" from the eight century B.C. until the third century.  The Romans arrived in Calabria 500 years after the Greeks and loved the local wines!  After the Roman empire fell, "Calabria was ruled by the Germans, the Goths, the Lombards, the Byzantines, the Normans, the Franks, the Swabians, the Saracens, the Spanish, and the French."  The 'ndrangheta (Calabrian mafia) begin flexing it's muscle from 1850 onwards and some say they've never loosened their vice grip on the region (a sad fact for the people of Calabria).  

5. Cistercians monasteries dominated much of Calabria and their traditions continue to this day, such as practicing an ascetic way of life and deep reliance on agriculture.

6. An annual swordfish sagra (festival) is held on the first Sunday in July in Bagnara Calabra.  The sagra features wonderful food and is best known for the blessing of the ontre or traditional fishing boats used to spear swordfish.  The is one cool event and it takes place only 10 minutes outside of Pellegrina (Pellegrina has it's own sagra focused on wheat)

7. Calabrians are famous for the diversity of their eggplant crop as well as reliance on fava beans, broad beans, and white beans.  Many fish are consumed from the Tyrrhenian and Ionia seas including swordfish, tuna, sardines, and herring.  See my article on 10 Ways to Cook Like An Italian here.

09ValleAosta
(photo: boar head next to boar salami?)

Contest / Book Give Away

In order to spread the concept of leading the good life via food (or at least talking about it!) the folks over at Farrar, Straus, and Giroux hava agreed to send a free copy of Why Italians Love to Talk About Food to one lucky Scordo.com reader !  Here's how you can enter the Why Italians Love to Talk About Food book giveaway contest:

- Prize Giveaway includes one (1) copy of Why Italians Love to Talk About Food.

- What you need to do to enter: 1. leave a comment under this post on a favorite food memory (from any region of the world) and how you indentify it to a major life moment or event (or even an important person or relative) and 2.sign up for the Scordo.com What's New Newsletter here (if you're already a newsletter subsriber than you'll need to sign up as a fan of Scordo.com on Facebook here).
 
- Only one entry per person please.

- The contest is open until 12 midnight on 1/30 and a single random user will be picked via Random.org (sorry contest only open to folks from the US given shipping logistics).  The winner will be announced immediately on Twitter (so please follow me) and on Scordo.com by 5PM on Monday, 2/1. 

cover
(photo: book cover)

- Please use a valid email address when leaving a comment so I can contact you just in case you're the lucky winner (I'll need your shipping address). 

- Farrar, Straus, and Giroux will send out the book to the single contest winner during the week of 2/1.

Finally, Elena was nice enough to answer a few of my questions on Italians and food.  You can find the full interview below and also purchase the book via Amazon:

1. How did you first get interested in the relationship a typical Italian has with his or her food?
 It was soon after I began my formal study of Italian language and culture in the University of Moscow. Suddenly I realized that there's a multitude of topics, either abstract or practical, which are closely linked to a food themes of in the mind of Italian people (and of people of Italian origins of course). An Italian says about his or her mother that 'she's as gentle as a bread', about a friend: 'we're like mac and cheese' ('cacio con i maccheroni'), and about a nasty person: 'his pumpkin (head) obviously lacks salt (brains)'. So the more I've been reading Italian journalism, poetry, novels, even philosophy and academic books, the more obvious it was: in order to understand Italy and Italians, one definitely should familiarize herself with secrets of their culinary code.
 
2. What surprised you the most about how Italian interact and relate to food?
I just love their comprehensive approach to food! A dish can't be 'delicious' or 'bad' per se, it's to be evaluated in context of the entire feast menu. To really enjoy spaghettis, one should take into account a dish that was served before it (antipasto), what was a main dish, and what followed (a dessert). Such an approach suppose that a customer is not only able to evaluate a palatability of every single dish, but also understands what sequence/combination of dishes might be considered prefect, good, adequate, bad, or disastrous. I should affirm that literally every adult Italian has got - subconsciously in the majority of cases - this culinary culture, that he or she has adopted from the very childhood, both in family and in social institutions (kindergarten, school, college etc.)

Yet to say that Italian teenagers today - and especially in big cities - gradually absorb an American-style eating traditions: hamburgers, French fries, hotdogs, Coca-Cola. It is possible that in a decade or two Italian culinary rituals and traditions will sink into degradation and will be swept away by a globalization.
 
3. Americans get a bum wrap for their relationship with food (not to mention the typical American diet); are things changing in the US? Will we ever see regional cooking make a comeback in the US?
 Well, you tell me! I strongly hope that there's a possibility for that in the US, but let your readers express their own judgments. I will enjoy reading them.  (Scordo comments: well, what do you think of Elena's question, will American ever be food obsessed in the way Italians live and eat?)
 
4. Your book is not a typical cookbook; was it difficult to talk about food with no references to recipes?
The main subject of my book is not a food in itself, but what Italians SAY about it. To a certain degree, my book is a systematized collection of testimonies of Italians who cook, sell, describe, picture, enjoy and eat Italian food. To put it the other way, my book's main focus is not on recipes, but on existing general concepts and their roots.
 
5. Is there a particular regional, Italian, cuisine that you like best?
 My favorite regional Italian cuisine is definitely that of beautiful Toscana (Tuscany). Its food is full of energy and dynamism essential for Tuscan character. I adore the taste and look of fresh Tuscan products: vegetables, bread, fish, meat, and not to forget about its inimitable wine. I would highly recommend a freshly-made fiorentina beef stake (only a couple of minutes on grill), a cazzimperio salad made of fresh vegetables and special seasoning (vinegar, olive oil, local spices). Tuscan bread is in the base of the world-known bruschettes. As for a local fish courses, made of Tuscan fish, so rich in flavor, my favorite is a delicious cacciucco soup, which according to a local tradition should be prepared of at least five different kinds of fish (as many as Cs in its name, cacciucco), though the more the better.
 
6. Of the southern regions of Italy, is there a dish or food philosophy that you enjoyed researching or were surprised by?
As almost every newcomer, I was amazed by a practice of  meridionale (southerners) to eat a wet uncooked fish or seafood just from the net, seasoning it only with salt and lemon juice and washing it down with chilled white local wine. This viand turned to be just as tasty, nutritious and delightful as French oysters accompanied by Chablis wine or Japanese fugu sushi with Japanese beer; the only difference is that the last two are world-famous luxury food, while only few connoisseurs outside Italy know the divine taste of a freshly caught octopus, sea urchin and frutti del mare accompanied by chilled Fiano wine (brought to Apulia by Angevins some 800 years ago). To tell you all the truth, I believe that one should try these delicacies only in Italy, combining a joy of gourmet with other esthetic pleasures Apulia with its magnificent seashore and plenty of old Norman castles offers.
Pge 191
(photo: via the Italian Farmer's Table, rye bread)

(UPDATE 1/10/09: Contest is closed.  The winner is SimplyForties!  Thanks to everyone for participating.)

If you've read any of my articles focused on Italian living and lifestyle over the last 6 months, then you've probably come to the conclusion that my Italian roots (and those of my parent's) are firmly situated in the mezzogiorno (the word mezzogirono references the southern region of Italy, including the regions of Basilicata, Campania, Calabria, Apulia, Molise,  Abruzzo and the islands of Sicily and Sardinia ).  In turn, I often shy away from writing about northern Italy because I'm both unfamiliar with the region and also because so much has been documented and said about areas/cities such as Toscana, Roma, Sienna, Genoa, etc.  But when a good friend forwarded me an article from a local newspaper in Connecticut I know I stumbled upon something special, namely, a new book by husband and wife team Matthew Scialabba and Melissa Pellegrino entitled, The Italian Farmer's Table, Authentic Recipes and Local Lore from Northern Italy (see the accompanying website here!).  

0-7627-5264-5
(photo: via the Italian Farmer's Table, cover photo)

Like the movie Julie and Julia, Matt and Melissa ate, worked, and lived their way through every region of northern Italy by way of agriturismi (subsidized, working, family farms that provide lodging and meals to travelers).  The couple also documented 150 northern Italian recipes from the farms, including many dishes I've never read or encountered in Italian cuisine.  The 150 recipes are translated with great care and they can, for the most part, be easily adapted for the American kitchen.  In addition to the recipes, the book also include tidbits on local traditions, events, and, of course, food items (for example, in the the chapter on the Casa Al Campo farm we learn about the Dolomite Mountains and the hunting rituals surrounding deer and chamois).  The Italian Farmer's Table also features great photography, especially photos taken with the farm owners and their local products.  

Pg 5
(photo: via the Italian Farmer's Table, making pasta)

I loved the Italian Farmer's Table so much that I asked Matt and Melissa if they were willing to offer a free copy of their book to a lucky Scordo.com reader and, echoing the generous spirit of the Northern Italian farmers referenced in the book, they agreed!  Here's how you can enter to win a free copy of The Italian Farmer's Table:

- Prize Giveaway includes one (1) copy of the The Italian Farmer's Table

- What you need to do to enter: 1. leave a comment under this post on your favorite Italian region or city that you've visited (if you haven't been to Italy which region would you like to visit?) and 2. sign up for the Scordo.com What's New Newsletter here.
 
- Only one entry per person please.

- The contest is open until 12 midnight on 1/10 and a single random user will be picked via Random.org (sorry contest only open to folks from the US given shipping logistics).  The winner will be announced immediately on Twitter (so please follow me) and on Scordo.com by 5PM on Monday, 1/11. 

- Please use a valid email address when leaving a comment so I can contact you just in case you're the lucky winner (I'll need your shipping address). 

- Globe Pequot Press will send out the book during the week of 1/11.

Finally, Matt and Melissa were also nice enough to answer a few of my questions on local versus organic food, the agriturismo industry, why Italians place so much emphasis on eating well, etc.  You can find the full interview below and also purchase the book via Amazon.  

1. What inspired you pick up and leave the US and live in a foreign country.  Was it difficult to adjust and handle the practical elements of living a foreign country.
We had been toying with the idea to write a cookbook about the Italian agriturismo for about six years.  After numerous rejection letters from publishers, we decided to do the trip ourselves.  We knew that the whole agriturismo system was practically unknown to the American tourist and that as the farm to table mantra began to pick up steam here in America, the timing was right for a book of this nature.  We had both lived in Italy before so being there again was not that big of an adjustment.  I think the hardest part was living out of a suitcase for four months and changing farms every 5th day.
 
Pg 94
(photo: via the Italian Farmer's Table, fennel)

2. There's been lots of talk in the media surrounding organic and local foods.  Should shoppers concentrate on buying local versus organic?
Hopefully if it's local, it's also seasonal and not shipped across the country or from another country.  While we commend organically grown food we are not that big on its status symbol and government approved stamp.  There is nothing better than eating ingredients that are in peak season and harvested close to where they are sold.  Many of the farms we visited considered themselves "independently" organic, farming naturally without pesticides or chemicals, but perhaps lacking an official organically grown certificate. Hopefully, most locally grown food available to consumers are adopting a similar philosophy.
 
Pg 68
(photo: via the Italian Farmer's Table, harvesting grapes)

3. How do Italian shop for food and is there a big emphasis on organic or local foods?
 Italians shop for the day, often going to the markets every day to seek out what's fresh and looks the best.  Kitchens often have much smaller refrigerators than we have in the US and they eat far less processed foods and snack food.  

4. What's an agriturismo?
An agriturismo, is a working farms with accommodations and restaurants, where everything grown and raised on the farm are served to guests.  The system was formed in the eighties to help preserve small family farms.   By allowing them to open their doors to overnight guests, farms were able to supplement their incomes by providing food and lodging.  They have experienced tremendous success, and there has been a huge movement throughout the country as crumbling farms are being renovated and revitalized.  There really is no better way to experience rural Italy than to stay at an agriturismo and soak in some local culture and eat and drink like a real Italian.  
 
5. What makes local Italian food taste so good and is it really possible to recreate the dishes in your book here in the US?
Prime ingredients that haven't traveled hundreds of miles.  We have adapted all recipes for the American home cook
 
6. What's your favorite northern Italian region?
Too difficult a question - each region has its own personality and charm
 
7. You mention the "Italian countryside lifestyle" - what exactly is this?
Living sustainably and with the seasons consuming what one can grow and raise locally.  
 
Pge 91
(photo: via the Italian Farmer's Table, fresh ricotta)

8. Why do Italians put so much emphasis on eating well and how does good food contribute to such a high quality of life in Italy?  
Eating well means everything to Italians.  Eating means so much more than consumption, but rather, a time to be with friends and family and to sit down and enjoy company and conversation united by food.  This all contributes to a high quality of life focused on more intrinsic values with less emphasis on material objects.  
 
9. What's your favorite, local, Italian dish to prepare in the US?
For us, in CT, we love linguine with clams.  Fresh local little necks, garlic, hot pepper, white wine, and lots of parsley.  Summer or winter, the briney salty flavor is a classic Italian (southern) favorite.

10. How is local farming set up in Italy and how can this system of food production feed a large western country and is it possible to replicate this system in the US?
The Italian agriturismo can prove to be a model example of how small farms can succeed and operate.  As more and more Americans are shopping at farmer's markets and becoming interested in learning about where their food comes from, smaller, family run farms have begun to experience success and economic sustainability.  While we are moving in the right direction, there is still much to change about American's eating habits.  The White House's first garden is symbolic of more awareness about the importance of eating well, and there's hope on the horizon for a better and healthier American diet.
   

kant.jpgA college professor once told me that most adults finish all serious reading by the time they reach the age of 23.  He went on to say that most professions, even ones that require a four year degree, do not require the worker to engage in prolonged or critical reading.  And while I'm sure there are exceptions to the statement, I agree wholeheartedly with the professor's conclusion.  Ask yourself, for example, what was the last serious novel you read or the last time you read The Economist from cover to cover (that's Immanuel Kant on the left, by the way; he wrote a Critique of Pure Reason and should be on your reading list)?

franz.jpgI've been fascinated with Kafka since High School and Zadie Smith offers an excellent review of The Tremendous World I Have Inside My Head: Franz Kafka: A Biographical Essay.


I think vegetarianism will most likely be the preferred way of eating in the far future (say once we over fish the oceans and grow up ethically as a civilization) and Su restaurant in the NYC metro area will start the conversion of the meat eaters (I'm currently one but thinking about a conversion)!

 

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